The final few shots from the Grand Envers yesterday. Here Matt and Simon are enjoying the untracked deep fluffy stuff. Clearly enough is never enough when things are like this.
COME on Guys book those flights and make the best of this dump with us at Dream Guides.
Well Guys. I think I'll be lacking some good shots from todays ski as the cameras died in the cold, so here are a few random pictures from the last few days. A HUGE thanks to Jon Griffiths for the use of the images check his site www.alpineexposures.com for much more of the same.
I'll post a few more shots in a while.
Kenton
Well they say better late than never. Here are a few shoots from climbing with Seb last week. You can read how Seb tamed the Alps in a previous blog, but for the time being from the top.
1) The boy himself Seb TT Chivers
2) Topping out at the Cremerie.
3) deep snow on the Cosmiques Arete.
4) The Final pitch of the arete, with a deep coating of Rime ice for added a little more spice.
5) Kenton and Seb at the end of 3 great days.
Stay posted for news of skiing the Cosmiques later.
Enjoy Kenton
There were hardly any folk at the midi lift this morning. Matt and I got there at 8.15 only to be told that it wasn’t going to open till 9am. After the snow yesterday and the fact that the Midi lift didn’t run meant that the wait was an easy decision. Jon and Simon also joined us again for the day, and Jon had very kindly lent me his Black Diamond Verdict’s for the day. If one thing was sure it was that a fat ski was going to be needed for today.
The arête was in good nick and we were soon popping into bindings and wondering what to ski. With so few folk it wasn’t going to be an issue, we decided on a Grand Envers for starters.
The traverse across was surprisingly hard under foot but we were soon looking into the first pitch that looked very very good. I dropped in but was surprised to hit stuff under the surface, breaking right I found better snow and after a few turns I found rhythm and snow.
After a wee mistake that put us slightly too low and therefore a side step back to the right spot (opps) we were above the main pitch. Remy Lecluse had caught us up at this point, (the uber French Guide/Skier) and was a little nervous about the snow. He dropped the slope first assessing conditions before he waved us on. My GOD it was SSSSOOOOooooo DDDDEEEEEEEPPPPP. Simon took a tumble and lost a ski, luckily he found it pretty quickly even in snow that deep, and we pressed on. The next few minutes provided nice snow and easy angle slopes. The extra width on the Verdicts was very noticeable and I was simply floating downhill, it was so cool.
Probably the best section was just above the exit gullies where wide open slopes and less risk of any crevasses meant we could all let rip. Was it the best pitch I’ve ever skied??? It must be a contender. I put in huge GS turns as I blasted down, the snow was way over my head on every turn, it was totally unreal!!
Matt and I put in a couple of huge pitches in untracked snow that finally put us out onto the Mer De Glace and a well-earned breather. Here we caught up to Remy who was grinning all over. We chatted about what to do after lunch and watched Simon and Jon take a slightly different couloir down, we could hear them whooping with joy on every single turn.
The flat of the Mer De Glace was a pain and the snow was heavy but we poled our way down until we picked up speed again. I was thinking of the next run and was in my own dream world when… BLAM I hit a rock and cart wheeled. Moments later Matt did the same; only he cracked his head on his ski tip, carving a hole in the crown of his head. There was blood everywhere.
I got his skis off and turned him so I could get a good look. Blood was oozing everywhere, the hole was big but luckily his head is pretty thick, and his eyes told it all. Matt is a trooper and despite concerns of some of the others I could tell the boy was ok. He dropped me a little wink before he skied off, his headband replaced by a bandage that made him look like the Easter bunny. Like a said a true trooper.
We weren’t too far from the boot up to the bond run and thus down to Cham. So it wasn’t long until we were walking through town getting funny looks with blood all over Matts face. As I write he is getting it patched up in Cham Hospital, I reckon 5 stitches but we’ll have to see.
Totally EPIC day in even better snow than yesterday, but there is a moral. If Matt had his helmet on, his rather thick head would be intact, he was lucky this time. If you haven’t got one then suck it up and buy one today, they start from about 70€, not much for your life is it.
Take care out there and enjoy
Kenton
Was this the best days skiing of the season so far???
Matt Helliker and myself headed up to Flegere early doors. The forecast was so so and it looked better in the a.m and we were keen to rip it up. The team was going to be Matt, Jon Griffiths and Simon all handy on the planks so I was going to be playing catch up all day. We all met at the bottom lift and we cheekily used my guides badge to dodge the queue that was looking rather big. This meant we were on the 1st bin that ran just before 10 and in pole position for the day.
It all started well, with knee to thigh deep perfect powder straight off the lift. We threw a few laps in the trees while the liftes got on the case and opened the index lift that would open up the upper part of the mountain. Jon knew of a few little gems and we were soon dropping a steep tight gully (that we had to straight line) that lead into a wide area of untracked champagne snow. We whooped our way down with face shots on almost every turn, surely that was going to be the run of the day??.
The index opened around midday and we hit some great snow. It took a while busting a trail in deep snow to the run we wanted but boy it was worth it. Acres of untouched virgin snow. We were like little naughty boys in a sweet shop. We could ski anyway, could this be what heaven is like, probably not, nothing could be this good. Sitting on the lift we drew the first breath of the day and reflected that so far every run had been fresh tracks and each better than the previous. We were finding that folk were following our tracks so after a 2nd lap left from the index we searched for new terrain.
The pisteur wasn’t allowing us to drop into the Lavancher bowl straight off the lift so we dropped a little height and hit it lower. It just seemed to get better and better, a wee bit heavy at the top but it gave way to lighter stuff lower down and huge amounts of snow. We dropped it 3 times before we broke yet another traverse track, this time on the right hand side of the bowl. It took some effort but the reward……… if the 1st run off the Index was heaven then this had all the decadence of hell but with snow rather the flames of Hades. I have never had such a good run in Europe ……ever ……..until the last run of the day. Jon had held the trump card till last. Matt and I were unsure but the boy came through. A high traverse put us over a little col and I dropped into a steep narrow couloir in deep snow, pure magic. Tired legs saw us blast into a huge fan of deep untracked snow. How was this possible it was 4pm and we were screaming down in near waist deep untracked snow, heaven and hell in one stroke.
We missed a final run as the Index lift shut but we didn’t care, the mountain had been beasted and so had our legs. We stood in our own silence as the lift carried us down, each reflecting on how perfect the day had been. Huge amounts of skiing, in deep untracked snow over great terrain.
Thanks for the crew today for making it happen and even more thanks to Jon for the photos.
Bring on tomorrow!!
Kenton
Well Seb Chivers left Chamonix this am in some nasty weather, but that’s not what the weather over the last 3 days was like.
Seb started his 3-day climbing trip off in a slightly frustrating manner. We were hoping to climb the Cosmiques arête on Thurs but new over night snow and strong winds meant that the Midi lift was shut. After about an hour of hanging around drinking coffee the lift company finally said that they would open at 12.30, far too late for us. So it was plan B that was brought into play. Back to my place to swoop ropes and pick up a different set of axes and then we raced off to the Cremerie in search of ice.
Much to our surprise there was still quite a bit of climbable ice and we quickly set about getting involved. Seb hasn’t done too much ice in the past but together we quickly sent the first route in 3 pitches, with Seb grinning from ear to ear on every pitch. The 2nd route was a 2 pitch little number with a steep top section. Due to the warm temps the ice was super chewy and great to climb, but even so steep ice is steep ice and it was a red faced puffing Seb who got to the belay. I lost count of how many times he said superb, but I reckon he was having fun.
Day 2 saw us again at the lift for the midi. This time it was running and after a wee wait to get on we were whisked up to 3842m and the stunning view that you get from there. Seb had never been up there before and couldn’t believe the vista. The Cosmiques as ever was “superb” (Sebs words not mine). It wasn’t it the best of conditions with deep snow and about a foot of Rime Ice on the upper part of the route. In places it looked and felt like climbing in Patagonia. Poor Seb suffered a little with the altitude but he struggled on like a trooper and we forced a trail all the way up to the cable car station. It was a great little battle and one of the more memorable ascents I have done of the route.
For Sebs final day we decided to sniff out some more valley ice. I wasn’t too sure where to go but we drove to Italy to look at Antares in Valsaveranche hoping that it would still be in condition. It was, and it looked pretty fat still so off we set. Climbing up the initial gully it was a little off putting to see huge blocks of ice laying in the snow, something had fallen down not too long ago. I set off on the first pitch, which was pretty wet, but like the Cremerie super chewy. The second, main pitch was in great condition and every placement was a 1st time sinker, totally ace and very very enjoyable. Seb followed in fine style until half the 3rd pitch collapsed, falling past the poor lad with a thunderous BOOM. This was kinda off putting (no surprise), but he dug deep and made it too the safety of the belay. Climbing the last pitch was out of the question and we hastily set up to rap off. Back at the car you could see a huge section of the final pitch was missing. It was a lucky escape, and not one to repeat.
It was an amazing few days with fantastic weather. Stay posted as Seb has some great pictures, which he’ll send to me so I can up load.
Today is a rest day before I start a week with Sir Ran Fiennes in preparation for his Everest trip in April.
Enjoy out there
KC
Sorry for the delay in getting this posted but I've had a few problems with the site sorry Guys. Anyway here is the report from the last days of the trip.
The last day of the week’s course and a tricky one for me. Russ and Chris had such a good day on Thurs that it was always going to be hard to top. Our rest day on Fri was spent drinking tea and checking out Laerdal. I must say there isn’t much to do; even the local café run by an English Guy was boring.
Temps had warmed up on Fri and overnight making a few of the icefall unstable so we decided to get the guys leading again. We chose a 4 Pitch route that Dave Hollinger had climbed on Tuesday. The walk in was a mellow 1hr 10 or so and it had a good feel about it all. All 3 of us said that there was a very relaxed atmosphere to the morning as we geared up beneath the 1st pitch.
Chris set up first through deep wet snow and quickly dispatched the pitch belaying to a tree high on the right to bring Russ and myself up. The next section was a snow slope that seemed to take an age due to the knee deep wet heavy snow. This took a while to grind up, but we finally got under a cool blue sweep of ice. This was about 60m high with a ledge at about ½ height. Russ was keen to lead the first section, which looked like it would be the steepest bit. He led it really well (see video below) placing ice screws on some of the step ground and looking super solid. It was about WI 4 and I was really impressed. Chris led us through the top pitch showing good style on an awkward rising traverse.
We got down to the snow in one huge 60m rap and then waded down the snow to the final abseil. Back at our sacs it sunk in that this was the last climb of the week and that home was calling. We walked back to the car in very warm conditions, with little conversation between us, each lost in his own thoughts reflecting on what a great week we had just had.
Back at the Chalets we all had dinner together (take out pizza ha ha ha) and some drunk a little too much whiskey (bad Martin). It was a nice end to one of the best weeks ice climbing I have ever had.
It wasn’t all over as on Sunday while driving to the airport a jack Knifed lorry caused a huge delay and we only just made flights (in my case I had to plead to be let on). The week maintained its sense of adventure right to the end.
So that was Norway 08, how to sum up??? Well let’s just say it was totally awesome.
Thanks to Martin Moran, Martin Welsh, Dave Hollinger for being such cool fellow guides and to the crew Andy, Kristy, Alan, Steve, Julian, Ken, Russ and Chris, with out you guys it would never have happened.
Thanks
Kenton
I’m just in from possibly the best ice route I’ve climbed this year. Kjurlifossen is a huge icefall up one of the nearby valleys and is one of the must do routes of the area, a modern classic by anyone’s standards.
The teams were slightly mixed up today with Russ going out with Dave Hollinger and Martin Moran, while Chris was with Martin Welsh and myself. All the other clients were having a rest day so the two lucky clients had 2 guides looking after each of them
A 6.30am start saw Martin driving the wee 4x4 up the snowed up track as far as he dared before parking and starting the walk. After the snow of yesterday there was quick a bit of trail breaking to do and Chris did almost all of this. The gully to the start of the route was knee deep in places but it was a ‘quick’ hour from the car to the base.
Pitch one looked amazing, a vertical pillar maybe 30m high, it was going to be a fight that was for sure. I racked up all the screws and set off. I found a small cave at about 10m that I could climb round the back off and pop out maybe 4m higher on the front face. This I managed but only just as it was a tight squeeze getting back out. The pitch turned out to be pretty easy, there was a groove that I bridged up before some funky moves broke out left and to the top. It was really cool climbing and very enjoyable despite the huge amounts of spindrift that pummelled down. Both Chris and Martin confirmed that this was probably the best pitch climbed this week, a true gem.
A snow basin leads up the next ice band, which Martin blasted off. This led us to the head wall. I thought this would be a couple of pitches but it turned out to be 4 long ones (what do guides know hey!!). I led two lllooooooonnnnnngggggg pitches on easy(ish) ground to set Martin up for his big lead. Chris and I watched him pick his way up the most amazing ice mushrooms, winding his way round them and over them, it wasn’t super hard climbing but must have felt pretty committing on the lead and a full 60m pitch. He ended up in the middle of nowhere and had to take a hanging belay. It was a crowded stance to say the least and very scary, I ended up taking on the last pitch, which proved to be steeper than it looked. It didn’t take too long to tame the beast and all 3 of us were shortly at the top looking at the view.
Getting down was fine as there was some in situ kit in place although a couple of the abseils were full 60m rope stretchers that were a little worrisome. We were all happy when we got to the last rap point and so to the bags. We trotted and bum slid back to the silver bullet (Suzuki 4x4), which propelled us back to the chalet and that much needed beer.
Quite possibly the best day so far (of the year). Thanks to Martin and Chris for the company.
Be safe and enjoy
Kenton
Day 3 saw the clients on the sharp end of the rope for a change and a wee rest for the guides.
Both Dave Hollinger and myself took our groups to a great icefall at Hegge. It suited our needs well with 3 pitches of grade 3/3+ that the clients could lead followed by a harder pitch at the top which we would climb. The walk in was like a beefed up version of walking into the Cromlech in N Wales, apart from the scree was covered in snow. It was all minging, and I was heard more than once having a moan about it on the way in and over a beer after. Dave Ken and Chris did a fab job busting a trail to the base where all 6 of us geared up.
The forecast was for snow and for once it appeared right, big wet flakes fell as Russ started up the first pitch. Despite his speed on the lead both Chris and I were pretty cold and wet by the time we moved off. Moving quickly to keep warm we were soon at the stance and it was Chris’s turn to lead. To safe guard him I led the pitch first putting in a couple of Key screws in case something went wrong then coming back down to the stance. He didn’t really need the screws I put in (it was piece of mind for me though) as he cruised a fine pitch in good style and quickly set up the belay. Russ’s next pitch was pretty steep but the boy barley broke sweat even stopping mid crux to place a screw, what a show off !!!.
As Dave and his group of Ken and Steve were climbing just off to our left we were all able to get some good pics of one another, as well as hurl abuse at one another. This kept sprits up, as the weather got gradually worse as the day wore on and we all got wetter and wetter.
The final pitch was a huge wall of steep ice about 40m high and maybe 30m wide. There was a huge crack at about 25m that went all the way across, this didn’t look too good but a few words between Dave and myself saw me launching up skywards. It was a long lead that worked its way first right, then back left before finishing up a steep pillar on the right. It was with tired arms and aching calf’s that I finally reached the top. The boys did a great job following with Russ coming straight up the front face in an arm busting 20m of vertical ice, well done to the boy.
The abseil down was quick and soon all 6 of us were squeezed into the car for the ride back, no mean feat if you saw how big Russ is. Yet another great day out in Norway on the ice, that’s 3 down and 3 to go!!
Take care out there
Kenton
Wow what a day we have had today. An early rise was needed for our mission, leaving the Chalets just before 7am.
Russ Chris and I had decided to climb the Haugsgjeli, a super impressive icefall that’s situated just outside Laerdal. The approach was kinda hard work; it was basically a 2hr up hill boulder scramble, which was less than ideal. The only thing that kept us going was the fact that after about 1hr 10mins we rounded the corner and stepped into a really impressive amphitheatre with the icefall holding centre stage at the back. It still took another 40mins over pretty nasty ground, but with the climb in sight Russ forged a trail in to the base. We all thought the icefall looked pretty short 150m to 200m max, little did we know!!!.
The 1st pitch proved to be a full 60m-rope stretcher. The lower part was covered in a rain crust that had to be bashed off before being able to place an axe, followed by a steep brittle pillar into a basin and the belay. The next was again a full 60m, up easy ground to start then into a steep groove on good ice this was a great pitch. The wind was howling here and blow snow all around making things very atmospheric especially with the echoes of us climbing bouncing off the rock walls.
Pitch 3 was a long traverse in deep snow that leads to the upper sections. Another 2 huge pitches brought us under the last pitch and a choice of routes. There was a very impressively hard looking pillar (very scary) and a not so scary looking one to our right, or follow the easier line directly above us. Further inspection of the not so scary pillar showed a big gap at the bottom, this was enough for me to scuttle up the easiest line with out a second look at the really scary pillar. It was yet another 60m pitch that brought us to the top. This pitch was funky and a number of pick placements had water gushing out of them soaking ropes and gloves alike. The view from up here was awesome, looking north up the fjord and the nearby snowy hills.
The descent was quick as we had pre placed all the abseil anchors on the way up (clever us!!). Once back at the sacs we were faced with the boulder field of despair back to the road. It didn’t disappoint and it was 3 tired narked off climbers who reached the road about an hour later.
I’m now sitting writing this with sore ankles from the boulder field but with a warm glow from a great day out.
Kenton
The trip getting here was a total nightmare. There was a huge storm system over Europe on Saturday; this made the flight to Munich the worst flight I’ve ever had. We were held in a holding pattern for over an hour over the airport being buffeted by wind. Most people were vomiting by the time we landed and the whole plane was like a huge sick bag. Once landed the ground crew couldn’t attach the steps as it was too windy so we spent an extra 30mins sitting in the reeking plane all very unpleasant. The airport was then shut for over an hour and the resulting delays meant I was over 6hrs late getting to Bergen.
Dave Hollinger picked me up early Sunday and we had a cool drive up to Laerdal, we even managed to get lost which was a bit lame as we are both guides. The accommodation here is pretty wacky, 4 person wee wooden huts on a campsite, pretty bijou and cosy.
The weather last week was really warm so there isn’t a whole lot in good condition but there is enough and it’s getting colder this week so fingers crossed on that.
There are a total of 8 clients this week and I climbed with Russ and Chris today who are on the advance course and looking for some steep ice. We all went to the same venue (at Hoggeberg) as folk were just finding their legs again as most haven’t climbed ice for a year or so. In total we climbed 3 routes with a few pretty steep pitches, which the boys both really enjoyed, Russ especially so, getting to each belay with a huge grin and demanding more.
The other groups all had a great day as well, it was quite nice all being at the same place as it proved to be really sociable.
Tomorrow my gang are off to this great looking 5-pitch route in a huge deep cut gorge. Martin did it on Saturday and raved about how good it is so there really is no choice but to go and do it.
Enjoy out there
Kenton
The final few shots from the Grand Envers yesterday. Here Matt and Simon are enjoying the untracked deep fluffy stuff. Clearly enough is never enough when things are like this.
COME on Guys book those flights and make the best of this dump with us at Dream Guides.
Well Guys. I think I'll be lacking some good shots from todays ski as the cameras died in the cold, so here are a few random pictures from the last few days. A HUGE thanks to Jon Griffiths for the use of the images check his site www.alpineexposures.com for much more of the same.
I'll post a few more shots in a while.
Kenton
Well they say better late than never. Here are a few shoots from climbing with Seb last week. You can read how Seb tamed the Alps in a previous blog, but for the time being from the top.
1) The boy himself Seb TT Chivers
2) Topping out at the Cremerie.
3) deep snow on the Cosmiques Arete.
4) The Final pitch of the arete, with a deep coating of Rime ice for added a little more spice.
5) Kenton and Seb at the end of 3 great days.
Stay posted for news of skiing the Cosmiques later.
Enjoy Kenton
There were hardly any folk at the midi lift this morning. Matt and I got there at 8.15 only to be told that it wasn’t going to open till 9am. After the snow yesterday and the fact that the Midi lift didn’t run meant that the wait was an easy decision. Jon and Simon also joined us again for the day, and Jon had very kindly lent me his Black Diamond Verdict’s for the day. If one thing was sure it was that a fat ski was going to be needed for today.
The arête was in good nick and we were soon popping into bindings and wondering what to ski. With so few folk it wasn’t going to be an issue, we decided on a Grand Envers for starters.
The traverse across was surprisingly hard under foot but we were soon looking into the first pitch that looked very very good. I dropped in but was surprised to hit stuff under the surface, breaking right I found better snow and after a few turns I found rhythm and snow.
After a wee mistake that put us slightly too low and therefore a side step back to the right spot (opps) we were above the main pitch. Remy Lecluse had caught us up at this point, (the uber French Guide/Skier) and was a little nervous about the snow. He dropped the slope first assessing conditions before he waved us on. My GOD it was SSSSOOOOooooo DDDDEEEEEEEPPPPP. Simon took a tumble and lost a ski, luckily he found it pretty quickly even in snow that deep, and we pressed on. The next few minutes provided nice snow and easy angle slopes. The extra width on the Verdicts was very noticeable and I was simply floating downhill, it was so cool.
Probably the best section was just above the exit gullies where wide open slopes and less risk of any crevasses meant we could all let rip. Was it the best pitch I’ve ever skied??? It must be a contender. I put in huge GS turns as I blasted down, the snow was way over my head on every turn, it was totally unreal!!
Matt and I put in a couple of huge pitches in untracked snow that finally put us out onto the Mer De Glace and a well-earned breather. Here we caught up to Remy who was grinning all over. We chatted about what to do after lunch and watched Simon and Jon take a slightly different couloir down, we could hear them whooping with joy on every single turn.
The flat of the Mer De Glace was a pain and the snow was heavy but we poled our way down until we picked up speed again. I was thinking of the next run and was in my own dream world when… BLAM I hit a rock and cart wheeled. Moments later Matt did the same; only he cracked his head on his ski tip, carving a hole in the crown of his head. There was blood everywhere.
I got his skis off and turned him so I could get a good look. Blood was oozing everywhere, the hole was big but luckily his head is pretty thick, and his eyes told it all. Matt is a trooper and despite concerns of some of the others I could tell the boy was ok. He dropped me a little wink before he skied off, his headband replaced by a bandage that made him look like the Easter bunny. Like a said a true trooper.
We weren’t too far from the boot up to the bond run and thus down to Cham. So it wasn’t long until we were walking through town getting funny looks with blood all over Matts face. As I write he is getting it patched up in Cham Hospital, I reckon 5 stitches but we’ll have to see.
Totally EPIC day in even better snow than yesterday, but there is a moral. If Matt had his helmet on, his rather thick head would be intact, he was lucky this time. If you haven’t got one then suck it up and buy one today, they start from about 70€, not much for your life is it.
Take care out there and enjoy
Kenton
Was this the best days skiing of the season so far???
Matt Helliker and myself headed up to Flegere early doors. The forecast was so so and it looked better in the a.m and we were keen to rip it up. The team was going to be Matt, Jon Griffiths and Simon all handy on the planks so I was going to be playing catch up all day. We all met at the bottom lift and we cheekily used my guides badge to dodge the queue that was looking rather big. This meant we were on the 1st bin that ran just before 10 and in pole position for the day.
It all started well, with knee to thigh deep perfect powder straight off the lift. We threw a few laps in the trees while the liftes got on the case and opened the index lift that would open up the upper part of the mountain. Jon knew of a few little gems and we were soon dropping a steep tight gully (that we had to straight line) that lead into a wide area of untracked champagne snow. We whooped our way down with face shots on almost every turn, surely that was going to be the run of the day??.
The index opened around midday and we hit some great snow. It took a while busting a trail in deep snow to the run we wanted but boy it was worth it. Acres of untouched virgin snow. We were like little naughty boys in a sweet shop. We could ski anyway, could this be what heaven is like, probably not, nothing could be this good. Sitting on the lift we drew the first breath of the day and reflected that so far every run had been fresh tracks and each better than the previous. We were finding that folk were following our tracks so after a 2nd lap left from the index we searched for new terrain.
The pisteur wasn’t allowing us to drop into the Lavancher bowl straight off the lift so we dropped a little height and hit it lower. It just seemed to get better and better, a wee bit heavy at the top but it gave way to lighter stuff lower down and huge amounts of snow. We dropped it 3 times before we broke yet another traverse track, this time on the right hand side of the bowl. It took some effort but the reward……… if the 1st run off the Index was heaven then this had all the decadence of hell but with snow rather the flames of Hades. I have never had such a good run in Europe ……ever ……..until the last run of the day. Jon had held the trump card till last. Matt and I were unsure but the boy came through. A high traverse put us over a little col and I dropped into a steep narrow couloir in deep snow, pure magic. Tired legs saw us blast into a huge fan of deep untracked snow. How was this possible it was 4pm and we were screaming down in near waist deep untracked snow, heaven and hell in one stroke.
We missed a final run as the Index lift shut but we didn’t care, the mountain had been beasted and so had our legs. We stood in our own silence as the lift carried us down, each reflecting on how perfect the day had been. Huge amounts of skiing, in deep untracked snow over great terrain.
Thanks for the crew today for making it happen and even more thanks to Jon for the photos.
Bring on tomorrow!!
Kenton
Sorry for the delay in getting this posted but I've had a few problems with the site sorry Guys. Anyway here is the report from the last days of the trip.
The last day of the week’s course and a tricky one for me. Russ and Chris had such a good day on Thurs that it was always going to be hard to top. Our rest day on Fri was spent drinking tea and checking out Laerdal. I must say there isn’t much to do; even the local café run by an English Guy was boring.
Temps had warmed up on Fri and overnight making a few of the icefall unstable so we decided to get the guys leading again. We chose a 4 Pitch route that Dave Hollinger had climbed on Tuesday. The walk in was a mellow 1hr 10 or so and it had a good feel about it all. All 3 of us said that there was a very relaxed atmosphere to the morning as we geared up beneath the 1st pitch.
Chris set up first through deep wet snow and quickly dispatched the pitch belaying to a tree high on the right to bring Russ and myself up. The next section was a snow slope that seemed to take an age due to the knee deep wet heavy snow. This took a while to grind up, but we finally got under a cool blue sweep of ice. This was about 60m high with a ledge at about ½ height. Russ was keen to lead the first section, which looked like it would be the steepest bit. He led it really well (see video below) placing ice screws on some of the step ground and looking super solid. It was about WI 4 and I was really impressed. Chris led us through the top pitch showing good style on an awkward rising traverse.
We got down to the snow in one huge 60m rap and then waded down the snow to the final abseil. Back at our sacs it sunk in that this was the last climb of the week and that home was calling. We walked back to the car in very warm conditions, with little conversation between us, each lost in his own thoughts reflecting on what a great week we had just had.
Back at the Chalets we all had dinner together (take out pizza ha ha ha) and some drunk a little too much whiskey (bad Martin). It was a nice end to one of the best weeks ice climbing I have ever had.
It wasn’t all over as on Sunday while driving to the airport a jack Knifed lorry caused a huge delay and we only just made flights (in my case I had to plead to be let on). The week maintained its sense of adventure right to the end.
So that was Norway 08, how to sum up??? Well let’s just say it was totally awesome.
Thanks to Martin Moran, Martin Welsh, Dave Hollinger for being such cool fellow guides and to the crew Andy, Kristy, Alan, Steve, Julian, Ken, Russ and Chris, with out you guys it would never have happened.
Thanks
Kenton
I’m just in from possibly the best ice route I’ve climbed this year. Kjurlifossen is a huge icefall up one of the nearby valleys and is one of the must do routes of the area, a modern classic by anyone’s standards.
The teams were slightly mixed up today with Russ going out with Dave Hollinger and Martin Moran, while Chris was with Martin Welsh and myself. All the other clients were having a rest day so the two lucky clients had 2 guides looking after each of them
A 6.30am start saw Martin driving the wee 4x4 up the snowed up track as far as he dared before parking and starting the walk. After the snow of yesterday there was quick a bit of trail breaking to do and Chris did almost all of this. The gully to the start of the route was knee deep in places but it was a ‘quick’ hour from the car to the base.
Pitch one looked amazing, a vertical pillar maybe 30m high, it was going to be a fight that was for sure. I racked up all the screws and set off. I found a small cave at about 10m that I could climb round the back off and pop out maybe 4m higher on the front face. This I managed but only just as it was a tight squeeze getting back out. The pitch turned out to be pretty easy, there was a groove that I bridged up before some funky moves broke out left and to the top. It was really cool climbing and very enjoyable despite the huge amounts of spindrift that pummelled down. Both Chris and Martin confirmed that this was probably the best pitch climbed this week, a true gem.
A snow basin leads up the next ice band, which Martin blasted off. This led us to the head wall. I thought this would be a couple of pitches but it turned out to be 4 long ones (what do guides know hey!!). I led two lllooooooonnnnnngggggg pitches on easy(ish) ground to set Martin up for his big lead. Chris and I watched him pick his way up the most amazing ice mushrooms, winding his way round them and over them, it wasn’t super hard climbing but must have felt pretty committing on the lead and a full 60m pitch. He ended up in the middle of nowhere and had to take a hanging belay. It was a crowded stance to say the least and very scary, I ended up taking on the last pitch, which proved to be steeper than it looked. It didn’t take too long to tame the beast and all 3 of us were shortly at the top looking at the view.
Getting down was fine as there was some in situ kit in place although a couple of the abseils were full 60m rope stretchers that were a little worrisome. We were all happy when we got to the last rap point and so to the bags. We trotted and bum slid back to the silver bullet (Suzuki 4x4), which propelled us back to the chalet and that much needed beer.
Quite possibly the best day so far (of the year). Thanks to Martin and Chris for the company.
Be safe and enjoy
Kenton
Day 3 saw the clients on the sharp end of the rope for a change and a wee rest for the guides.
Both Dave Hollinger and myself took our groups to a great icefall at Hegge. It suited our needs well with 3 pitches of grade 3/3+ that the clients could lead followed by a harder pitch at the top which we would climb. The walk in was like a beefed up version of walking into the Cromlech in N Wales, apart from the scree was covered in snow. It was all minging, and I was heard more than once having a moan about it on the way in and over a beer after. Dave Ken and Chris did a fab job busting a trail to the base where all 6 of us geared up.
The forecast was for snow and for once it appeared right, big wet flakes fell as Russ started up the first pitch. Despite his speed on the lead both Chris and I were pretty cold and wet by the time we moved off. Moving quickly to keep warm we were soon at the stance and it was Chris’s turn to lead. To safe guard him I led the pitch first putting in a couple of Key screws in case something went wrong then coming back down to the stance. He didn’t really need the screws I put in (it was piece of mind for me though) as he cruised a fine pitch in good style and quickly set up the belay. Russ’s next pitch was pretty steep but the boy barley broke sweat even stopping mid crux to place a screw, what a show off !!!.
As Dave and his group of Ken and Steve were climbing just off to our left we were all able to get some good pics of one another, as well as hurl abuse at one another. This kept sprits up, as the weather got gradually worse as the day wore on and we all got wetter and wetter.
The final pitch was a huge wall of steep ice about 40m high and maybe 30m wide. There was a huge crack at about 25m that went all the way across, this didn’t look too good but a few words between Dave and myself saw me launching up skywards. It was a long lead that worked its way first right, then back left before finishing up a steep pillar on the right. It was with tired arms and aching calf’s that I finally reached the top. The boys did a great job following with Russ coming straight up the front face in an arm busting 20m of vertical ice, well done to the boy.
The abseil down was quick and soon all 6 of us were squeezed into the car for the ride back, no mean feat if you saw how big Russ is. Yet another great day out in Norway on the ice, that’s 3 down and 3 to go!!
Take care out there
Kenton
Wow what a day we have had today. An early rise was needed for our mission, leaving the Chalets just before 7am.
Russ Chris and I had decided to climb the Haugsgjeli, a super impressive icefall that’s situated just outside Laerdal. The approach was kinda hard work; it was basically a 2hr up hill boulder scramble, which was less than ideal. The only thing that kept us going was the fact that after about 1hr 10mins we rounded the corner and stepped into a really impressive amphitheatre with the icefall holding centre stage at the back. It still took another 40mins over pretty nasty ground, but with the climb in sight Russ forged a trail in to the base. We all thought the icefall looked pretty short 150m to 200m max, little did we know!!!.
The 1st pitch proved to be a full 60m-rope stretcher. The lower part was covered in a rain crust that had to be bashed off before being able to place an axe, followed by a steep brittle pillar into a basin and the belay. The next was again a full 60m, up easy ground to start then into a steep groove on good ice this was a great pitch. The wind was howling here and blow snow all around making things very atmospheric especially with the echoes of us climbing bouncing off the rock walls.
Pitch 3 was a long traverse in deep snow that leads to the upper sections. Another 2 huge pitches brought us under the last pitch and a choice of routes. There was a very impressively hard looking pillar (very scary) and a not so scary looking one to our right, or follow the easier line directly above us. Further inspection of the not so scary pillar showed a big gap at the bottom, this was enough for me to scuttle up the easiest line with out a second look at the really scary pillar. It was yet another 60m pitch that brought us to the top. This pitch was funky and a number of pick placements had water gushing out of them soaking ropes and gloves alike. The view from up here was awesome, looking north up the fjord and the nearby snowy hills.
The descent was quick as we had pre placed all the abseil anchors on the way up (clever us!!). Once back at the sacs we were faced with the boulder field of despair back to the road. It didn’t disappoint and it was 3 tired narked off climbers who reached the road about an hour later.
I’m now sitting writing this with sore ankles from the boulder field but with a warm glow from a great day out.
Kenton
The trip getting here was a total nightmare. There was a huge storm system over Europe on Saturday; this made the flight to Munich the worst flight I’ve ever had. We were held in a holding pattern for over an hour over the airport being buffeted by wind. Most people were vomiting by the time we landed and the whole plane was like a huge sick bag. Once landed the ground crew couldn’t attach the steps as it was too windy so we spent an extra 30mins sitting in the reeking plane all very unpleasant. The airport was then shut for over an hour and the resulting delays meant I was over 6hrs late getting to Bergen.
Dave Hollinger picked me up early Sunday and we had a cool drive up to Laerdal, we even managed to get lost which was a bit lame as we are both guides. The accommodation here is pretty wacky, 4 person wee wooden huts on a campsite, pretty bijou and cosy.
The weather last week was really warm so there isn’t a whole lot in good condition but there is enough and it’s getting colder this week so fingers crossed on that.
There are a total of 8 clients this week and I climbed with Russ and Chris today who are on the advance course and looking for some steep ice. We all went to the same venue (at Hoggeberg) as folk were just finding their legs again as most haven’t climbed ice for a year or so. In total we climbed 3 routes with a few pretty steep pitches, which the boys both really enjoyed, Russ especially so, getting to each belay with a huge grin and demanding more.
The other groups all had a great day as well, it was quite nice all being at the same place as it proved to be really sociable.
Tomorrow my gang are off to this great looking 5-pitch route in a huge deep cut gorge. Martin did it on Saturday and raved about how good it is so there really is no choice but to go and do it.
Enjoy out there
Kenton
