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Thursday, April 24, 2008

Everest Update 3

Thanks for being patient about the updates guys but due to lots of problems with power, computers and not lest the problem with the Chinese getting things like this done has been nothing short of impossible, but all seems to be working now.

Anyway the team stands today ready to head back up to camp 1 tomorrow with the hope of then climbing up to camp 2 the following day for a couple of nights. This is all part of the std programme of letting our bodies get used to the high altitude and also getting to know the route on the hill.

Today is the last of 3 rest days which were very much welcomed after a tough 2 days going up to camp 1 at the end of last week. The climb to 1 started at 5am with breakfast, (always hard to consume at such an hour) and by 6 we were moving in the icefall. Things all went really well and Ran was climbing at a steady pace. We were soon at our pervious high point and the sun was still to hit us, I was very happy with how Ran was coping with the climb and the altitude.

The upper section of the icefall is pretty broken with a couple of large vertical ladders, but on a whole the icefall is safe and quick to move through this year. Once one breaches the icefall there is still about an hour weaving this way and that though crevasses before one comes to camp 1.

The team all got there in around 5 ½ hours which was great timing. Once there we all got busy melting ice to water to re-hydrate and eating. The afternoon was spent in our tents sheltering from a bitter wind while we debating if Sir Cliff Richard was Indian or not (answers on a postcard please). Ran and John were sure he was at least ½ Indian while the rest of us were a little less sure.

The night at one is never that nice but it passed pretty quickly and soon I had purring at 6 in the morning. Ran had had a fit-full night and was keen to head down so Dave (the cameraman) and myself headed down not long after 8am in order to miss the

Midday heat. In the meantime Rob and John headed up for a couple of hours and got into the western cwm before they too returned to BC.

All in all it was a very successful trip one where Dave reached a new high point (Altitude wise) in life, Ran got to see the Lhotse face at last and the rest of us got a cool couple of days in the hills.

After that as I mentioned we have had a few rest days which have involved washing dirty clothes, eating heaps and playing a large number of cards. The only sad point was saying goodbye to John who headed home after reaching his own goal of seeing the western cwm. Rob also took this time to take some amazing photos at night, see the one of my tent at the top of this page. It has been very very cold at night here so a big thumbs up to him for the dedication needed.

Last night myself and Ran ate at one of the other camps which was fun so thanks to Victor Saunders for that, although the walk back in the dark with just one head torch was an adventure in its own right.

That’s about it for now, we’ll be away for a few days but I’ll try and keep you all up dated with what happens soon.

Stay safe

KC

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Everest Update

Its April 18th and we have been at BC now for almost a week. Its been an exciting 10days since I last posted a blog here, the team finished the walk in without too many problems. From Namche we had a long day to Deboche before we pressed on to Dingboche and a day's rest before the final 2 day push to basecamp. We arrived on the 12th and all the team were in good form despite the odd headache. We had a whole day of doing nothing the next day which was just what we all needed as we all had some dirty washing and also dirty bodies that needed cleaning. The 13th was Puja day and as ever it was a great day, check the Marie Curie website for some great bits of film from the ceremony. Although it always seems like a laugh its a really serious affair, with the lama blessing the expedition so that we are all safe. After about an hour we break from the religious side of things and crack into the coke and beer. Its a great experience and one that should never be missed. All good things come to an end however and the following day was ice fall day. Ran, Rob, Dave and myself set foot in the notorious Khumbu icefall for the first time this year. We climbed up for over 2hrs through large tumbled blocks of ice until I was happy with progress (in truth the sun came out and it got too hot). After a wee break we turned for home happy with the day and boasting to fellow expedition members about the experience. The following day saw us back in the icefall, only this time right to the top. Ran went really well and after a mere 3.5hrs we were all drinking juice and eating chocolate while waiting for the sun to arrive and warm our cold limbs. The descent proved to be rather slow with all of us feeling the heat, but it always finishes and by 1.30 pm we were all taking our crampons off and walking back to BC. Not much has happened since then, I've finished my book (great autobiography by Heckmair of Eiger 38 fame) Rob has done his washing, while John has walked to camp 1 on Pumori today. Ran has just been hanging out telling great stories about his past adventures which has kept all around him enthralled. WOW some one has just burst into the tent to say the 08 Everest Basecamp bakery has just opened and its giving away free apple pie. Now Blogs are important but............ Stay safe KC

Monday, April 07, 2008

Everest seen at last

Wow it’s been a busy few days here in Nepal. It all started by finally getting our permits to climb, see first photo in the Ministry of Tourism, and then the strangest of things. There was a HUGE hail storm in Kathmandu that lasted a few hours and left most things covered in a layer of ice. Now Ran and I are currently in Namche, the capital of the Khumbu. We left Kathmandu on Fri Morning and had an uneventful flight to Lukla. After a swift pot of tea (Ran is the last of the British Adventurers after all) we set of for Monjo. The walk is pretty gentle on good in paths and after a couple of hours we stopped for lunch and more tea. We sat outside in the sun but we were watching the clouds boil up over the nearby hillside. The final hour to Monjo saw us all don waterproofs and walk in steady rain which was a little upsetting. The lodge in Monjo is really cool with a nice sun lounge and a great wood burner which they crack up in the eve. Sat was the big hill to Namche. We entered through into the National Park and drop down to the Doh Kosi River before the grind to Namche. It started to rain at the bottom and didn’t stop. We were all pretty wet by the time we got in, but the fire was burning and we all dried off pretty quickly. The eve was spent playing various card games which Natalie seemed to win most of the hands which we all reckon was a result of cheating (although we don’t know her method) while Ran was losing most hands. Today (Sunday) saw a break in the bad weather and finally allowed us some great views. The team finally got its first view of Everest way in the distance, it looked a long way off and there was a nasty snow plume coming off the top. (Check the last pic with Ran there, Everest is the samll hill just to the right of his head) We went for a wee walk to Kumjung and stopped for yet more tea, and some chocolate doughnuts (which Ran reckoned we’re too dry even though he ate two). The walk back was funny with most people taking slips in the mud. Poor Dave got back covered in the stuff much to the amusement of everyone else. The rest of the day is going to be spent chilling before we hike further towards the mountain. The next update will probably be from Base camp as the Marie Curie film team have a few problems with all the communication equipment (i.e. its not working) and the Dream Guides set up has gone ahead already, bummer. Anyway stay cool out there and keep checking for news. Take Care KC

Friday, April 04, 2008

Arrival in Kathmandu

It’s finally started. After months of planning and more than a little worry due to permit issues the Dream Guides Everest Team has arrived in Kathmandu. Rob Casserley flew ahead of the main party on Sat and is in the Khumbu as we speak, meanwhile Liz and Dave flew two days ago and were here to greet us. Ran and I left Gatwick Tues morning and arrived about an hour late at 9.20am local time on Thurs 3rd. It was a little tearful leaving behind my lovely girl at Clapham station, especially after the special weekend we had just had together. I had 3 rather large heavy bags and getting around with this was hard work to say the least and I arrived rather relieved at check in and therefore able to get rid of them. Phil from ITN was there filming Ran checking in and then did the same with me while I haggled the excess cost down to a reasonable amount. A HUGE thanks to Daniela from Italy who helped us out on that one. My attempted blag for an upgrade failed even with Sir Ran with me, but we did get to use the lounges at Gatwick, which was better than nothing. The flights across were fine and I met a couple of the Guys who are walking in with us at Doha, before the 2nd leg of the flight. As ever Qatar Airways were great, the only hiccup was a delay at Kathmandu when we couldn’t land due to fog, we spent about an hour going round in circles before finally touching down. Kathmandu is a pleasant temp right now and I’m writing this from the wee terrace by the pool. Its not all going to be fun though, as I have meetings to go to and need to sort out all my kit that is in storage here, and that’s just today. Anyway for the time being we are here and the adventure has officially begun. Stay cool Kenton

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Everest Expedition 08 is Launched

I’m (Kenton) back in the UK now from my home in France in the build up to this years Everest trip. All day Thurs was spent in London tying up loose ends and attending meetings. 8am saw Rob Casserley, Sir Ran Fiennes and myself at Tower 42 in London for the press conference and official launch of the expedition. There were a number of people from the Marie Curie Cancer Care Charity (the charity who we are climbing for) and members of the press. But for me the coolest people there were the Marie Curie Nurses, the people who do all the care work for the patients. There was maybe 8 or 9 of these hardworking ladies present and they were all full of fun, giggling when we had our photos taken together and presenting Ran with various books to sign. With out doubt these ladies are what makes Marie Curie such a great Charity. The Launch went really well, lots of pics and a few probing questions from the press, but it was all great fun. Then it was in a taxi and across to the ITN studios for a crash course in the film equipment that we hope to broadcast from the summit with. It was great to meet up with Rob and Phil again. It was these two dudes who filmed the Eiger ascent last march and I’ve not seen Rob since. They showed us round ITN and we even got to sit in the News at 10 chair….how cool was that!!!. We had one or two hiccups getting all the kit to work but after a few hours we left with a huge case of expensive laptops and cameras (god knows what the excess baggage will be come wed). Then it was home for about 30mins to throw a suit on before the evening event. We had been invited to the Foreign Office for a reception. I had never been there before and WOW what an amazing building. Both Jazz and myself were very impressed by how beautiful it was. The eve was a simple affair with a few drinks and nibbles followed by Ran saying a few words about why we’re climbing for Marie Curie, and then myself talking about the forth-coming expedition. Afterwards I got to meet some really interesting people some who climbed, some who skied and a few who had impressively powerful jobs (I’m easily impressed!!). As ever the eve came to an end all too quickly but it was super cool walking out into the cool of the late evening and the guarded courtyard. We felt like 2 people in part of a bond film. Not an average day for a mountain guide but a very interesting day and one where I met some very very dedicated people, a day I shall never forget in a hurry.

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