Dream Guides Latest News Blog

Our Blog has moved to our New Website

2010-09-11T22:13:00.001+01:00

Hello everyone!

Our blog has now moved to our brand new website (our website address stays the same www.dream-guides.com).

Because the blog has moved, unfortunately you will have to re-sign up on our new site to receive email alerts to new blog posts. This is for security and anti-spam reasons.

Go to our website and click 'Register' in the top right corner of any page. Fill out the very short registration form and you will receive 2 emails. One to verify your email address and one to confirm you wish to subscribe to the 'Blog Alerts by Email'.

Click on the links in these 2 emails and you are done! The whole process takes about 1 minute.

The latest Blog Post by the team about 'tagging Camp 1' on Manaslu and the missing photos from the previous post are there waiting for you!

All future blog posts will go to the new blog and will not be posted here.

If you do not wish to subscribe to the Blog Email Alerts, you can simply check our website from time to time.

We hope you enjoy the new website and enjoy the new Blogs.

Thanks!

Guy and the Dream Guides team.

Manaslu is getting closer!

2010-09-06T21:12:00.001+01:00

The team have finally got to the town that sits beneath Manaslu itself....Samagaon.

It's been a pretty epic 6 day trek through some amazing terrain and scenery. Getting to the road head was an adventure on its own. The skill of the truck driver really showed through on a number of occasions, the journey still took over 6hours for a mere 40km!!! It was an incredible drive with most of the team sat on all the bags in the back while Charles and I sweated it out in the cab.

The trek started in a place called Aragat and slowly took a path through a deep gorge with a crashing river in its dark depths. The first 4 days were a battle against the heat and humidity as well as bed bugs and Mosquitoes. Looking back on it now it seems like a true adventure but at the time it seemed a pretty miserable trek. Just as we started to gain some altitude and things cooled down the Monsoon let itself be felt once again with the last 48hrs being almost nonstop rain and low cloud. The positive thing was that the lodges got a lot better the higher we went and the Mosquitoes slowly disappeared. On the whole the trek was quite incredible we found ourselves walking through a lost world like landscape with amazing waterfalls and deep lush forest.

So now we are at Samagaon and the next part of the adventure begins. Alan has just caught the first glimpse of the glacier that tumbles down from the mountain. We have heard from another team that the trail to BC is in a very poor state with a number of waist deep river crossings needed. All we can do from here is to hope that the rain stops and the sun appear so that we can start to move all our equipment the 1400m up to BC.

The team are all in high spirits and we are all looking forward to getting our teeth stuck into the next phase of this amazing adventure of climbing Mount Manaslu. stay tuned...

Manaslu Expedition Kicks Off

2010-08-27T10:08:00.005+01:00

Its summit time. The bottom of the pool at the Summit Hotel
Its a huge hello from a hot and sweaty Kathmandu.
Most of the Dream Guides Manaslu team memebers are now here in Kathmandu, so thats Andy, Fredrik and Alan as well as myself (Kenton) We're just waiting on Charles who arrives later today and Colin who is on a fast track mission and doesn't get here until Sept 13th (Its a long story!!)
As ever its great to be back in Nepal and greeted by old friends. I'm always pleaseantly surprised by how freindly the whole place is, especailly after spending time in London!!
The flight over went really well, I got the skis and a heap of luggage on without extra charge, this was partly due to be reconigised at check in. The lovely lady worked some magic and before I knew it some 45kg of kit was just waved through.....Thanks to all at Qatar Airways.
The last 2 days have been a whirlwind of meetings, sorting and packing of equipment and generally getting everything ready for the trek to BC. Its still the end of the Monsoon here so everything is damp so we have to be super careful packing our high altitude down gear. And the rain keeps falling.
Everything has gone super well so far and it looked like we would be leaving Sat morning for the start of the trek but then along comes the Nepal curve ball. A problem with the permit has meant that we have to wait an extra 24hrs in Kathmandu, its one of those silly little issues that shouldn't be a hassle but somehow always are. Its no real stress in the greater scale of things its just that the team are all buzzing and can't wait to get going on what looks like a fab trek to the mountain.
Kenton and the DG Manaslu Team

Si Grayson's 40th Birthday

2010-08-16T20:58:00.003+01:00

I first met Si when I was at Leeds Uni way back in 1991. I can't believe that he is now 40, my disbelief is more to do with the fact that I don't want to realise that I'm only a few years off 40 myself. Still it could be worse in so much that Brad who was also with us this weekend is much older than all of us, in fact he seems to think that he can remember dinosaurs....now that is old.

Anyway Si, Barney, Brad and Myself had all got together to relive our youth this weekend and have some fun and do a little climbing. At the end of the day we had heaps of fun, in the way that old friends always can but sadley little climbing was done, not due to those old joints creaking too much but more the rather pants weather. Is that rain said Brad?? No way said Si its my Birthday it can't rain....how wrong he was!!!

Si and Barney did manage to sneak in the Aig Du Index on Saturday (while I missed the day due to a delayed flight). When I finally did catch up with everyone in the bar....the first of many vists to the bar this weekend....there was much talk of daring doings and getting down just before the heavens opened, the bad news was that once opened they never really stopped!!!!

Saturday was spent in Italy (thanks for driving Brad) climbing at Arnad, well not much climbing, (we managed 2 climbs before the rain came) but having a long lunch. Luckly the red wine and fine food at the cafe was slightly better than the chip butties Si is used to in the peak district so he still thought he was having a great time....ha ha what a fool he can be. The Boys after yet another bar stop!!!

Apart from kayaking (which Barney happens to be pretty good at, he is in-fact a coach for team GB) rain is only any good for producing rainbows and boy did we see a great one coming home, and no it was nothing to do with the wine....see the photo to prove it. Today (Monday) was meant to be better for the weather so we arose at 6.30 to find yet more bloody rain, any ideas of going into the hills were squashed, so after a lazy breakfast of coffee, tea and Pain Au Chocolate and more talking crap on the sofa we mounted up and went dry tooling at Le Fayet.

The team did finally have a half decent day climbing and all of us got pretty pumped after just a few laps on some of the routes. The day's award must go to Brad who slipped off near the start of the 2nd route and did a damn fine impression of super man as he flew close to the ground on the rope. Climbing at last....well dry tooling at least

We wanted to climb the Dent Du Geant and ended up dry tooling in the drizzle, but it didn't matter. Its the first time we have all been together in years and years and it was as if we had never been apart. Only with true friend ship can you do this. Last night the banter flowed over a couple of beers while sat in my living room, it could have been Leeds 15 years ago apart from a few grey hairs have crept in. I have only one regret.....we left it so long.

The summer continues here at Dream Guides with a couple more Mont Blanc trips coming up as well as Saas 4000er's. I'm back to the UK tomorrow to see my two Girls before I fly out to Manaslu, the worlds 8th highest peak....so watch this space.

Kenton and team DG

Alpine Frustration, Rock climbing, and a young man called Asher

2010-08-08T11:16:00.004+01:00

Jurgen on top of the Aig Marbree Its been a strange couple of weeks out here in the Alps, the weather has been less than prefect and so its been lots of travel here and there. But its been good fun and we've got loads of climbing done. First up there was Jurgen and Seb who had their sights set on the Matterhorn. A big snow dump early in the week put pay to any Matterhorn ideas, so we spent a few days up high climbing the Cosmiques and Traverse of the Entreve before a couple of great days rock climbing. The really strange thing was Seb managed to get frost bitten toes rock climbing in the sun!!!!! (see the photo) The last day we decided on a crack of dawn start and knock off the Weissmeis in Switzerland. All was going well until Lori's car gave up the ghost. It must have been a funny sight, 4 climbers stood at the side of the road at 6am, in the rain, all looking at the engine not knowing one end from the other....it turned out to be an injection problem and we limped rather slowly back to Cham. It was a great week despite no Matterhorn, but don't worry boys it will be there next year!!! Lori enjoying some sun kissed rock in Chamonix Seb's 'frost bitten' toes, strange he got it in 20 degree sunshine....now what colour do you think he's boots are???? This week I was based over in Grindelwald, one of my favourite places to Guide with the family Silver. Nick and Asher, who is only 11 had climbed Mont Blanc with Dream Guides last year, as well as the Grand Teton when asher was only 9!!!!. This year sites were set on the Eiger!! Leaving poor Jennifer (Asher's Mum) all alone in Grindelwald the three of us set off to the Jungfraujoch on the train. Its an amazing journey through the middle of the Eiger. Dropping our extra things at the Monchjoch Hut we set off to the Monch. Its a short route but great fun, with an airy summit ridge that always has ones heart in the mouth. The North Face of the Monch in the Evening light
A big storm came through that night which wasn't expected so with the morning we decided back to the valley and spent the afternoon rock climbing....and getting very wet in a huge down pour of rain.
With a bad forecast for Grindelwald we de camped to Saas Grund where we had sights on the N Ridge of the Weissmeis. Its a really long rocky ridge which the boys did an amazing job on. Both Nick and Asher were out of their comfort zones but both manfully battled on until I decided we could escape to the glacier a little early and miss the summit. Their was disappointment not to get to the top after so much effort but all were rather pleased when we made the last cable car by a mere 10 minutes.....GREAT EFFORT GUYS!!!!.
Thursady was a complete wash out so the afternoon was spent in the Kletterhalle (climbing wall) in Interlarken. Asher climbed extremely well....even winning a pen knife in a bet off his father for getting up one of the routes....nice one fella!!!!!
Fri was also poor weather so we all went to the Reichenbach Falls....the waterfall made famous by Conan Doyle and his Character Sherlock Holmes!!! Its a cool place with the chance to jump on some Monster Trotties and whizz down the road. After lunch it dried up and we all got the chance to hit the rock once again. We all were a little tired from the week and the prize must go to Jennifer who made her elegant way up her first ever rock climb!!!!
It was a shame that Asher didn't get to climb the Eiger but like Seb and Jurgen the mountains never go anywhere and it will always be there next time.
I also got the chance to meet with a good friend of mine....Joby Ogwyn. His a base Jumping wingsuit flying superstar from the states, we had dinner together of Thursday evening. Although Nick and Asher didn't get to climb the Eiger we can see it in all its glory here as Joby flies along the NE Ridge
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlE-Q45gHZ4&feature=related
Thanks to all of you that made the last 2 weeks so much Fun KC and team DG

More Alpine Fun

2010-07-27T19:35:00.002+01:00

The summer seems to effortlessly cruise pass here in the Alps, its almost August yet it feels like we have only just left spring time. Its been busy times for Dream Guides and even busier times for me personally with lots of traveling to and from the UK. This week however I've been Alps based and climbing with Seb and Jurgen, so far we've had a great time, everyday we've been out getting stuff nailed!! The night before last was quite an amusing evening. We were all in the Torino hut when John Barry and Bill Barker rocked up looking somewhat tired. And so they should have been, Bill (Who is 67!) and John (60?) had just climbed the Swiss Route on the Grand Cap!!!! Well done boys great effort!!! John then kept us all entertained with his own special brand of humour all night!! Finally check the short video by our friend Seb Montaz it contains some great clips of the new Mountain Hardwear CEO Topher Gaylord, a man who I think will do great things at Hardwear http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p-HBtobXsM&feature=player_embedded Look out for the next Dream Guides blog later this week. Kenton and Team DG

Mountains, Summits and Cricket Whites

2010-07-18T21:26:00.003+01:00

It's been one of those weeks, very hectic but very rewarding with it. As you all know I (Kenton) had been climbing all week with Paul and Davis , we had already had a couple of ace days in the hills and the latter half of the week was spent over in Switzerland climbing the wonderful Weissmess above Saas Grund.
Thursday saw Adam George (one of our American Guide friends), myself, Paul and David practising our crevasse skills on the glacier above the Hossaas Hut. The evening was super, a very relaxing dinner followed by an amazing sunset from the terrace. Friday was an early start for us all, unfortunately Paul was feeling ill so decided to stay put in the hut while the rest of us left at 5.30 and headed out into the morning light.
David wasn't in the least bit intimidated by the fact that he was now climbing with 2 guides by putting up a great show of fitness and stormed to the top over takinga number of teams on the way.
The summit views were awesome with clear views of the Oberland summits as well as the nearby Mischabel Chain The very final part of the week was spent racing the Monster trotties (think a Kiddie Scooter on steroids). Paul ahd recovered from being sick over night and was unstoppable on the way down....the rest of us secretly think he wasn't ill but wanted to practice on the trooties while we were busy climbing....clever lad!!! Mean while Dream Guides had a Mont Blanc trip running in Chamonix which despite the windy weather high up proved to be a great success with teams summiting on Thursday. Lori's team got to the top in a great 3.5hrs from the Gouter Hut...well done team!!! Finally the end of the week was something completely different. Catching the 1st flight out of Geneva on Saturday morning I represented Sherborne Old Boys (even though I didn't go to school there, and I'm not very good at cricket, its a long story) in the annual Sherborne v Domside cricket match. Sherborne went into the match nine nil down in the series and Domside were odds on favourite to make it 10!!
But Rich Robinson steered his Sherborne side to a crushing 7 wicket victory, hitting the winning runs himself!!!! We all think its the start of an amazing come back...Great effort boys!!! (pictures to follow, I left the camera lead in France...DOH!!)
SO whats in store in the Alps next week.....well tune in here mid week and we will update you but with a good forecast I expect some great mountians climbed. >br/> Be cool out there
Kenton and Team DG

Comp winners and flying

2010-07-14T14:49:00.003+01:00

With the weather being totally amazing in the alps right now Paul, Dave and Myself (Kenton) have had a great but rather hot couple of days in the hills. Amazing view of the Mont Blanc Massif
Paul was the lucky Cotswold Comp winner from last autumn, part of the great prize was 5 days in the hills with yours truly. Paul was generous enough to bring one of his buddies along as well hence the 3 of us.
Kicking the week off I got sunburnt while Paul and Dave showed me their bum sliding skills as we came off the Aig Crouche. It was an amazing hot day with temps almost up to a scorching 40 degrees!! Paul and Dave on top of the Aig Crouche
Tuesday saw a quick hit to Italian and fine coffee and the traverse of the Entreves. Both the lads did a great job on the route and also the walk there and back.....effort lads!!!!
Today was something very different. Some good friends are in Chamonix and their two oldest children Henry (6) and Florence (4) were booked in to go Paragliding. This sounded pretty cool so I went along to watch. Unfortunately the winds were all wrong but the kids got to look pretty extreme with the kit on!!. Henry Coleman looking cool in a pair of Addias Shades....he told me big was in!!!!
Henry and Flo rigged up and ready to rock!!!
Tomorrow looks like it will be another red hot day, but Paul, Dave, and myself will be putting the cream on and looking to bag another summit!!!
Come out and join us this summer for some Mountain fun of your own
/ Kenton and team DG

Photos of Bread winners

2010-06-21T07:04:00.003+01:00

As promised here are a few shots from last week with the Guys from Kingsmill...oh and that Banker from Lloyds . Above is Tim (front) and Steve coming up one of the final sections of the cosmiques Ridge in wonderful weather (the only good weather day of the week!!)
A tired Kenton, Steve and Tim on the descent from the Weissmess in Switzerland, the line coming out the top of Steves head is the knee deep track that we ploughed in the snow on out way up.
Steve working his way up an exposed section of the Via Ferrata on the Jagihorn
The team at the Aig Midi after the mass ascent of the Cosmiques ridge...from the Left, Tim, Mark, Kenton and Steve...thanks for the massive effort you all put in Guys and fingers crossed for some better weather next time.
Kenton and Team DG

What a week with Kingsmill Bread

2010-06-19T16:59:00.003+01:00

Hi Guys Its been a little while since the last blog and that's due to the amazing week that's just gone. Our friends from Allied bakeries were back in the Alps with some big plans. Mark and Steve both climbed with us last year and now they brought their city trader big bonus mate Tim with them for extra clout. Between us we had some big plans but the rather poor weather made everything a little tricky.
Starting in Switzerland we hoped to climb the Weissmess, a classic 4000m peak as a warm up, unfortunately knee deep snow stopped us literally in our tracks a mere 150m short of the summit after nearly 5hrs of effort. Poor Tim was rather knackered at the top but rallied well on the way down...it was the sniff of the Birthday Beers I reckon.
With the forecast as it was we decided on a safe bet and climbed the Via Ferrata on the Jagihorn on Tuesday, if this wasn't hard enough there was added spice with the fact that I had to be back in London to speak at the IQ2 festival at the RGS, the pressure was on. The boys did a great job and we all simply raced up. Tim lead most of the way and Mark did an awesome job looking after Steve when he flagged a little, thanks mate!! With a mere 2 minutes on top we raced down to catch the lift, this was followed by an epic drive to the airport. I walked on stage just as the chair for the evening gave apologies for my absence...talk about skin of your teeth!!!!
Wed was an early morning flight back to France and then round to Italy for some epic coffee. The bad weather meant knee deep snow and little in the way of climbing, but this didn't stop Mark and I making the most of a break in the weather and we spent a wonderful couple of hours in atmospheric cloud walking on the glacier
Super bad weather followed with a big storm so Thursday was again spent yomping in deep snow in poor visibility, Mark seemed to love it so I sent him out in front breaking trail for a couple of hours, he was a natural and can certainly come out again if he is willing to do that all the time!!!
The end of the week brought the only good weather, the team had all come back to the valley and taken stock on a hard fought couple of days. The plan was an ascent of the Cosmiques Ridge. On the way up in the lift we broke through the cloud to stella blue skies. I think I speak for all of us it was simply an amazing day. I climbed with mark while Krister was with Steve and Tim. Highlights of the day were seeing Steve make a massive improvement from last year, shows what the climbing wall can do, while the real gem came from Tim who was trying so hard and was clearly out of his comfort zone but came up with a high pitched "I'm going to fall" while the rope was so tight above him I thought there was danger of it snapping. Joking aside the 3 lads did an amazing job so well done all. Tim don't forget those potatoes!!!
The weather contiues to be poor out here but we are already part way though our exclusive Everest training programme, this is a 10day programme to prepare you for climbing Everest with an ascent of Mont Blanc at the end. The guys are all camping tonight in the snow learning some vital camp craft skills before we do some ladder crossing training tomorrow.
Thats it for a round up....the weather won't be bad for ever so come and book you summer's fun we still have a few places on the courses. Take care KC and Team DG PS photos to come

Everest Pictures II

2010-06-08T08:55:00.002+01:00

As promised Guys a little taster of the walk to Everest Base Camp with the team this year. The middle photos are from the Puja, the writing is the chant that the Lama mutters. Its all pretty moving stuff. The bottom picture is the Team at the Everest BaseCamp sign. Come and join us all next year!! Regards KC

Everest Pictures

2010-06-04T21:36:00.004+01:00

Over the next few days I'll upload a series of pictures from our Everest Expedition. They will be all a little random but I hope it will give a flavour of the whole expedition I can only upload 5 pictures at once so please bear with me on this.
Pictures from the top
Sitting at the bottom of the Lhoste face after summiting
Looking into Tibet from the top of the world
Climbing towards Camp 3
Rick Below Camp 3
Kenton in the ice fall
More tomorrow KC

Over and Out

2010-06-01T13:04:00.002+01:00

Sitting in the Kitchen in my house in Fairford I can reflect on what was a great and enjoyable expedition to Everest. Coming home is always a little strange, the Everest team of 2010 is no more, we have parted ways and gone back to friends and loved ones. The close bonds we formed on the Expedition have been broken, but the friendship will always be there.
I for one miss the team and all the Staff, for the brief time we have at Basecamp we all worked towards one common goal, the summit. Now back at home I find the first few days a little aimless. Of course I'm happy to be at home with Jazz my wife and it doesn't take too long and Everest seems like a distant memory. I often say that what has happened is finished and only the future counts and this is no different. Everest 2010 will never diminish in my mind, it was a wonderful experience with new friends, but the summer in the Alps looms fast and I can't wait for the season's work to begin. Everest 2010 is all but over, I'd like to thank all the staff who made it so special, and also the other climbers. David, Trotty, Bonita, Tom, Rick and Ali, thank you all for the experience. Regards KC

Kathmandu

2010-05-26T08:00:00.002+01:00

Well the team have finally done it. I'm sitting in the Summit hotel drinking a cool lemonade updating the blog. Its not all been plain sailing, our bags are MIA right now, including my camera equipment, hence no pictures again (sorry) and we did spend and extra day in Syangboche waiting for weather to fly out but its all pretty much over.

The flight from Syangboche was on a small Pilatus Pilot plane with a rather larger than life Italian at the controls, but he did a great job and in about 5 mins we landed in Lukla where we had to change planes. We waited for about an hour before hopping on the std flight to Kathmandu.

The contrast is amazing one minute its cold, snowy and we are surrounded by mountains, then 45mins later its hot dusty and flat. After 40days in the mountains its going to take a little bit of adjustment.

I think I speak for us all when I say we are all looking fwd to getting home to family and friends, but that we leave behind something special in the mountains. In the mean time there is some shopping to do and maybe a little bit of party action to celebrate.

Kenton and the Everest Team

Waiting to Fly

2010-05-24T10:28:00.002+01:00

Well its normally waiting for weather to scale mountains not weather to fly home.
The remaining team of Rick, Ali, Trotty and myself (Kenton) are waiting in Syangboche for weather to allow us to make the flight to Kathmandu. We would normally fly from Lulka but we thought we could say a day by flying from here.......how wrong we were.
Fingers crossed that the cloud clears and that the planes can fly tomorrow, or it will be that walk to Lukla after all
Regards KC and the Everest Team

Walking Out from Everest

2010-05-23T03:22:00.002+01:00

Its the morning of May 23rd and the main part of the team left Base Camp yesterday on the trek back to Kathmandu.
The girl of the moment....Bonita....left a couple of days ago with Tom on a Chopper that whisked them straight from BC to Kathmandu, the reason for this was a minor case of Frostbite. Both Tom and Bonita suffered a wee bit of Frost damage to their toes. Now if this had been on the fingers no problem but the 3 day hike to Lukla would have been pretty painful and potential damaging to both their toes and as such we decided to fly them out. Its a shame really as the rest of the team misses them both already.
Trotty, Ali, Rick and myself left BC yesterday and hiked down to Pheriche, as normal I left late and arrived just before dark...DOH
The walk was however lovely, I spent all day on my own and sucked up the thicker air and then as one passes the climbers memorials the smells of life hit you. The nose was overwhelmed by the smell of grass and the swat juniper bushes. After 6weeks with out such smells it is really quite an experience. The temperature was prefect all day and due to my late start there was no one on the trail a prefect time to reflect, it proved, strangly to be one of the nicest days of the expedition
Today we continue our walk down the valley and we hope to Kathmandu before the predicted bad weather that may hold us up in Lukla comes in.
Last night some of our friends made summit attempts on the mountain in what seems to be the last weather window of the year, as yet I have no news but my fingers....and sore toes are crossed form them all
Finally although I walk back from my 8th successful ascent of Everest my good friend Rich runs the Edinburgh Marathon today, now he calls me mad but in my mind running a Marathon from your own free will is completely bonkers. All I can say is thanks for your help Rich and run as if your life depends on it!!!!! Next post soon....with pictures I hope....all the camera kit is packed away KC

Top of the world!!

2010-05-20T10:47:00.002+01:00

Kenton Bonita and Rick after the summit!!

Dorje shows off his Dream Guides Hoody top on the summit Kenton Shows its Number 8

Well were to start? It’s been a truly amazing 7 days here at Everest, we have seen summits and a wee rescue as well. The most important thing is that the team is all down at BC again safe and sound with 4 summits for the western climbers and 4 for the Sherpa’s as well.

The team got to the top on the morning of May 17^th, we all summated at different times. Kenton was the first to the top after breaking trail in deep snow from the balcony with Dorje. He was followed by Tom Claytor, then Rick Thurma and finally Bonita Norris at approx 10.30am.

It was a great day for summits with great views and little wind, a perfect summit day!!

The only hiccup of the day came when Bonita slipped on the way down and hurt her back and neck. This slowed her descent up and in the end I (Kenton) and a Sherpa team had to lower her down the final slopes from the Balcony to the South Col. The team finally all got back to the South Col camp at 2am after a pretty epic but ultimate safe descent from the top of the world.

We are all now at BC with part of the team flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow via Chopper while the other half will help break down base camp and probably depart in a few days

I’ll write a full report when I have longer than just 5mins to myself.

Until then thanks to everyone

Kenton and the Everest Team

Summit Success!

2010-05-17T06:18:00.001+01:00

All members of the Dream Guides team have now summited and are making their way back to Camp 4, congratulations one and all! The DG Team

Update from the Dream Guides team

2010-05-17T03:00:00.003+01:00

Kenton and the team left Camp 4 in relatively good weather last night. Kenton went ahead with his sherpa to break trail for the team (and other teams attempting a summit at the same time) and he has now successfully summited for the 8th time. As there are other teams hoping to reach the summit alongside Dream Guides, the rest of the team have got 'stuck in traffic' and so progress to the summit is taking longer. Kenton is confident that they will all do it in good time though and the weather should hold out for them. More as we get it. The DG Team

Tonight could be the night

2010-05-16T11:50:00.002+01:00

All the team are now at Camp 4. We are resting on oxygen and attempting to get as much food and fluid down us as the forecast is showing that the winds will be returning shortly, so, if we are going to go for it, it's tonight or not again for another week. It's currently snowing which doesn't make for great underfoot conditions on the ascent but we have a really strong sherpa team with us who will be helping me break trail (nobody has managed to summit yet this weekend so the trail is under quite a bit of snow). Wish us luck and let's hope the next update has some good news. Stay safe. KC

It's on!

2010-05-14T20:50:00.004+01:00

So, things are finally starting to look 'interesting' on the hill. A small window of opportunity appeared on the weather forecasts a couple of days ago, a 36 hour window to be precise. There are actually two types of weather information that we assess to find a decent summit window: the general precipitation (i.e snow and temperature) and, more importantly, the position of the jet stream. The summit of Everest lies fully in the planet's jet stream, winds so strong (118+mph), that climbers would literally be blown off the mountain. Everest is generally climbed at this time of year (and occasionally in the Autumn) for the simple reason that, as the monsoon season starts, the jet stream is pushed Northwards over Tibet for a small period of time. This provides a real opportunity for climbers to attempt to reach the summit before the roaring jet stream returns (often noted by the long stream of ice crystals extending from the top of the mountain). So, the small window was spotted and I realised that if we were to have a real opportunity of making the most of it, we would need to move fast and get in position (there appears to be another longer window in about a week's time). The team climbed really well yesterday through the ice fall, past Camp 1 and up to Camp 2, where we have rested for a day. Tomorrow (Saturday) we will undertake the daunting task of scaling the 1200 metre Lhotse Face to reach Camp 3. After a rest at Camp 3 tomorrow, my intention is then to take the team up to Camp 4 and into the Death Zone on Sunday. Lying at over 8,000 metres high, at the edge of the Earth's atmosphere, this camp is the staging area for a summit attempt. We only spend a few hours here as it is not particularly hospitable and our bodies start to deteriorate rapidly. We stop here simply to allow some time for the team to rest, rehydrate and try and get some food inside them, while I prepare the equipment and check oxygen bottles. Then, at about 2100, I will ready the team and we will leave for the summit in the dark. Climbing to the summit should take approximately 8-12 hours. I will of course be checking real time information on the way up such as the forecasts, the actual weather conditions, the underfoot conditions and, importantly, the fitness of the team. If all of these components come together in our favour, we may just have some good news on the 17th. Keep everything crossed for us! Be safe out there. KC

Base Camp ... still!

2010-05-12T08:54:00.008+01:00

Time flies at Everest Base-camp sometimes, its been 4 or 5 days since the last update. Its been a funny time here at base-camp, the team is in a state of limbo while we wait for the weather to turn in our favor. Since the Sherpa Team fixed ropes to the summit on the 5th May there has been little movement on the hill. A couple of people managed to sneak to the summit in the days that followed the Sherpa fixing but since then the weather has turned with strong summit winds. I woke up yesterday to see plumes racing off the flanks of Lhotse, a sure sign that the weather forecast was indeed accurate. SO what has the team been doing?? If the truth be known, not a great deal. There have been a few walks to Pumori Camp 1 which has been keeping everyone fit, lots of card playing, a few DVD's have been watched and a few members have had to reconstruct their tent platforms due to them melting out. Personally I have been suffering from my wisdom teeth coming through so this has made me somewhat grumpy and been laid up for a few days. They seem to be on the mend now and fingers crossed a few more days and I will be able to confront that day with out a belly full of pain killers. Finally Mike Kobold, James Stearns and myself had a trip into the icefall yesterday to snap a few pictures for some of the sponsors, we made the mistake of leaving a little late and as such got frazzled by the sun….I think the photos made up for it though. We await the weather forecast each day with baited breath, as yet there is no clear weather window, but you never know whats around the corner….fingers crossed for todays!!! Safe climbing out there Kenton and the Everest Team

Forecasts and Friends

2010-05-11T11:13:00.001+01:00

Forecasts are funny things, they can change from one day to the next, different forecasters can look at the same model can come up with two very different outcomes and of course they can often be wrong. But then it is a forecast. It sometimes seems more of an art than a science, but at the end of the day I have great respect for these guys. More than one of my ascents has been done to the nod of a forecaster many thousand miles away from where I have been climbing. There appears to be the faintest of hopes that there may be a window in the weather around May 16th. I'm not pinning much hope on it, its a very small 36hr slot which could easily disappear. Ralph from Bern in Switzerland (one of the very best forecasters) even states in his forecast that the winds could pick up again dangerously quickly. What I have decided to do is to take the team back up to Camp 2, then at least we will be in position on the hill if things change and the window widens. If the weather doesn't improve then it will be a great stretch of the legs and help get us all reacclimatized. So it seems to be a win win situation but only time will really tell. So its another 4am start tomorrow to trot through the icefall and then on to camp 2. I think it will take 6-8hrs for most of the team to get there and I'm hoping that the 10days we have spent down low hasn't affected the team's speed in the icefall. The other great thing that happened today was meeting Mike Searle once again. Mike is one of the worlds best Himalayan geologist, based in Oxford he works out of the University there. I had the pleasure of spending the day with him last June while doing some filming for the History Channel about the formation of the Himalayas. This was quite an honor for me as he wrote many papers that I had to read when I studied Geology at Leeds uni. He had trekked to BC this year looking at the geology area once again, replacing his old 35mm slides with Digital photos. Its amazing to be in his company, his enthusiasm is endless and one can't help but get caught up with it. Even as he came out the mess tent he was raving about what a great example of a granite batholith that stood behind basecamp (I had to rake my brains to recall what this was of course). Mike asked if I could collect a few more samples for him from high on Everest (like I did last year) and we agreed to meet in Oxford upon my return for a beer, something that I very much look forward to! So that it people, the next update will be in few days when we have a clearer picture of what is happening. Until then stay safe Kenton and the Everest team

Update from BC

2010-05-06T13:35:00.002+01:00

Its been nearly a week since the team was at Camp 2 and there is very little to report. The weather window that we were hoping to hit slowly disappeared on us which has been a little frustrating. The last few days at Base Camp have been cold and cloudy, we even had a wee dump of snow 5 days ago, which allowed Trotty to build her first ever snow man (with a little help from the Sherpas). There hasn't been much going on to report about. I've (Kenton) been suffering with my Wisdom teeth which has meant the last couple of days have been pretty miserable. The team has been great though, offering advice (from lets pull them out!!! to more sensible ones) and a kind smile when its been needed. Bonita has dropped down valley for a little R&R and is due back in a couple of days. Rick and Ali have been making themselves busy and even had a little ice climbing school going on in the ice fall a couple of days ago. All in all the waiting game has been a little hard on the team mostly because we were all set to try and make use of the early window, now we are having to re-adjust for one later in the season. But then thats one of the skills of mountaineering. The good news is that a very strong Sherpa team fixed rope to the summit of Everest yesterday. This means that when the weather does improve we will have a clear shot to the top, the problem is that we don't know when that will be!! Kenton

Photos from Camp 2 and 3 on Everest

2010-05-02T10:57:00.004+01:00

Hi All Below are a selection of pictures from our recent trip to Camp 2 and 3.......the final picture was taken today at BC..... as you can see there is lots of snow, thats not too good for the summit push (but great for a Snowball fight).
The weather forecast is now showing a rather confused picture so we are not 100% sure what our next moves will be. We are hoping that there may be an early summit but like many things its in the hands of the gods....especially that weather god!!!
Stay posted for an update telling you all what our next actions will be.
Have a great Sunday Kenton and the Everest team.

Everest Camp 3

2010-04-30T16:53:00.001+01:00

The team is once again at Base Camp after what can only be described as an epic rotation on the hill.
The team left early on Sunday morning with a 4am breakfast of eggs and toast, this is always quite hard to put down knowing that there is the gruelling trek through the ice fall ahead of us. We were all away by 4.30 and soon we were putting our crampons on at the start of the ice fall. The 1st hour or so is pretty flat and very soul destroying as almost no height is gained. We wound our way through the icy towers as a team and slowly as the gloom gave way to the light of day we gained height towards camp 1. It was a really uneventful trip through the icefall and we all made fab time to camp 1 where we were to spend the night.
Monday saw us all transfer to camp 2. It was a bitterly cold night so we were all a little reluctant to leave our tents even in the knowledge that it was only a couple of hours to Camp 2. Finally we all left around 8.30 when the sun had warmed things up a little. The climb to 2 is quite flat but what a climb it is, walking under the huge SW face of Everest and the N Ridge of Nuptse is stunning. The Western Cwm must rank as one of the most amazing mountain places in the world. We all made it to Camp 2 in under 3.5hrs despite the heat of the sun, which was a great effort by all.
Camp 2 is the staging post for the ascent of Everest, we have mess tent there and two full time cooks looking after us, it sounds pretty easy but you have to remember we are at 6400m and just walking to your tent is hard work. We spent the afternoon resting up and getting used to our new surroundings, and of course drinking lots of milky tea.
Tuesday was a day of active rest; I took the team out of camp and up to the bottom of the Lhotse face, the HUGE sweep of ice that soars skywards, well maybe not to the sky but certainly to the summit block of Lhotse. It’s up to 55 degrees steep and this year it is made up of bullet hard blue ice. The hike to the bottom took a couple of hours and sitting at the base drinking orange tang we all felt rather small compared to the towering mountains all around. The hike back to camp took a just over 40mins and with little to do that afternoon we all played a rather heated game of cards before a little nap before dinner.
The evening weather forecast was rather confusing to say the least and I wasn’t sure if we could make the climb to Camp 3 on Wednesday especially as when we all went to bed it was snowing hard and there was a strong cold wind blowing. I woke at 5am and poked my head out into the bitter cold of a clear morning, not a cloud in the sky and little wind….the climb to 3 was ON!!!!
Leaving Camp 2 at 7am we climbed through to the bottom of the face in the bitter cold, finally as we used the fixed ropes to start the ascent to Camp 3 did the sun finally hit us. Now most teams struggle with the climbing to 3 the first time but not this team. I followed Rick up as he made great progress climbing the ropes, he quickly found a rhythm that worked for him and we steadily climbed up the sheet of rippling blue ice. Not far behind where Tom and Bonita each lost in their own little world as they too found their own rhythm. The only member missing was Trotty who due to here sinus infection was making her way to BC for some R&R.
It took Rick a little over 2.5hrs to reach Camp 3 at 7100m…now that’s a great time!!! Bonita was next up about 40mins later and Tom just behind. Once we were there it was a quick break and the ZIP!!…. back down the ropes. Almost 5hrs of effort was turned around in just under 2 and all of us were sipping tea in camp feeling pretty smug with the day’s effort.
Thursday saw a much needed return to BC, the only slight hiccup was Bonita had run out of contact lenes and therefore was having a few problems with her vision. She needed a little help here and there seeing where to put her feet on the way down through the icefall. She braved up to the problem and was rewarded when one of the Sherpas came up from BC bringing her some fresh lenes. All the team where back in BC in under 4hrs (again another amazingly quick time).
That was yesterday, and finally today was spent washing clothes and of course ourselves after the 5 days up the mountain. As we left camp 2 the Sherpa team were preparing the carries of equipment to Camp 4 on the South Col. This is a monster effort by them and it will open the way for the western climbers to the summit. My fingers are crossed that they are all safe over the next few days while they carry this work out.
So what’s left….well the team is ready, what we need is a good forecast and then the game is really on!!!!!
I’ll post photos tomorrow from the last 5 days so keep an eye open for them.
Be safe out there Kenton.

camp 1

2010-04-24T09:03:00.002+01:00

Kenton dealing with the heat of the day on route to camp 1 Rick and his crevasse acrobatics Camp 1, with Lhotse in the distance The Dream Guides team yesterday had to say goodbye to its finest member: David Galloway. Since coming back down from camp 1 his departure is all we have thought about. Yesterday the team started out with him on his journey back to the UK by trekking down to Gorak Shep, where Tom then presented David with being honourary counsel to the 113th Bengal Lancers- a very poignant moment. This has meant that folks back home haven’t really heard anything about our trip to camp 1. Upon realising this, Kenton has dragged me into the comms tent to do a blog before its 7 followers start to think we’ve sacked the climb off and are heading back to Lukla with David at this very moment. So, camp 1- all team members successfully made the ascent, with Kenton leading the way in about 4 hours, and Lynette and ‘the ankle’ proudly arriving within the 8 hour mark. Tom, Rick and I arrived together after 5 hours. I felt especially responsible for Rick who has a penchant for spreading his legs over either side of a crevasse and then taking photos of its icy depths. His wife Allie is staying in BC and the thought of having to explain why we had to drag her husband out of a crevasse doesn’t bare thinking about- but hey, he’s Rick- its fine. Camp 1 is nestled on the floor of the beautiful Western Cwm, so named by Hillary after his love of the Welsh valleys (Kenton doesn’t think this is true but I am stating it as fact anyway). As we climbed over the top of the ice fall, a surprisingly flat walk welcomes us to this first base on the hill, a few crevasses for Rick to tempt fate with, and soon enough the yellow dots in the distance tell us that rest and hot tea is not far. Arriving in camp 1, we spotted the great Mt. Lhotse and for some reason it felt right to hug and cheer over this- it is obvious we have all dreamed of seeing these sights for ourselves for so long. That great bloody mountain- the 4th highest in the world (?), was bang in front of us, almost beckoning us towards her. That would have to wait, as camp 1 would be the furthest we would venture this time. Camp was un-eventful, katabatic winds set in at lunch time and did not abate until the next morning. One of the nicest things was someone playing their harmonica- every climber lying in their sleeping bag in camp would have heard the scratchy tunes, and smiled to themselves before falling back to sleep. The next morning we all set off for BC in good spirits at about 8. All had slept pretty well and had no signs of altitude sickness. Tom and I were the first to encounter the fallen pinnacle on the descent. A huge mass of ice blocks met us off the bottom of a ladder, the fixed rope was completely buried, and safe passage non-existent. We gingerly climbed over the shattered remains as fast as possible, searching for some safe rope. Eventually we found it and hurried on. Kenton caught up with us later and his first words to Tom were: ‘you lucky bugger’. Turns out Tom had sat under that pinnacle the day before drinking orange juice and wondering allowed whether he was in a safe spot. Within a few hours Tom and Kenton were back in BC and I arrived shortly after. Rick had elected to stay with Lynette in case her ankle went, and all arrived in dribs and drabs around lunch time. So, what’s next? Tomorrow the team are heading for a stint up high of between 5 and 6 days. We intend to stay one night at C1, two nights at C2, tag and perhaps sleep at C3 (up to KC), then a final night C1 or C2 before heading back to BC. This means we hope to be back in BC on the 1st or 2nd May. After that, we are technically ready for the summit- though there is a high chance we will do another rotation up to C2, just to keep us on our toes, as the weather window could still be weeks away. So today will be spent sorting kit for the next trip up, and eating and drinking loads whilst the altitude lets us. For a more in-depth (boring?) story of our trip to C1, check my blog at www.bonitanorris.com Over and out from BC. Bonita

Everest News David Returns home

2010-04-22T13:51:00.001+01:00

Kenton and David at Everest BC
It’s not a very easy blog to write. There is a certain amount of joy within the team that we have been up to camp one at 6100m, spent the night there, albeit with a few headaches and then made really good time back to BC the following day. The sad news is that poor David hasn’t got over his sleeping problems and as such has little choice but to call it a day with the Expedition.
I’ve known David for a number of years now and it really does sadden me to know that he isn’t going to be with us anymore. Its a few years ago now when we both stood on top of the Eiger in Switzerland after making a difficult ascent up the North East Ridge, little did either of us know at the time that the climb up was just the beginning of one of the hardest days guiding of my life. The descent down the West Flank is a story that needs a few drinks before being told but let’s just say it was a little epic. David not only stood up to the challenge but had a smile on his face the whole time (well most of the time anyway). I know that I can speak for the team when I say that David has brought something very special to the expedition.
I know that what I write will turn poor David red but I really feel a special bond between us, I look towards his honesty and integrity with admiration and feel humble to be around such a person. He has worked hard towards this trip, spending hours each Saturday morning running up and down a nearby hill, (much to the surprise of morning dog walkers as he passes them for a 2nd and 3rd time). To say it’s a shame that such a great person is denied the summit by a condition such that he is suffering (David is experiencing profound Chayne Stokes breathing, while this not damaging at all to health it means that sleeping at altitude is almost impossible), is a massive understatement. >br/> The only delightful aspect of this sad time is David’s attitude to the whole thing. It’s easy for someone to blame the guide, or the mountain, or the team, but David isn’t one of them. He is looking at this trip as an experience. He talks about the team, the trek, the base camp in glowing terms; he truly has enjoyed the time spent here. Despite not sleeping properly for days David climbed up almost half way through the Khumbu ice fall, crossing several of the infamous ladders on route, all the time with that funny toothy grin of his. He gained a height of around 6000m or 20,000 feet and I think he should be proud of what he has achieved here. Its interesting that everyone that has met him on this trip, even for a few minutes has expressed what a wonderfully kind and considerate person he is, I think this speak volume for the man!!
Tomorrow the team will walk part way down the valley with David.
Yes I’m sad to see a true friend leave, and the expedition will be a lesser one for his absence but I know that he goes home with something special within himself, something that I hope he will treasure forever.
David, I personally look up to you as a friend and a mentor and wish you safe travel back to Kathmandu and then onwards to home and the lovely Shelia. KC

The Expedition So Far

2010-04-22T08:19:00.002+01:00

The trek to base camp provided a welcome rest from a very hectic winter season in Chamonix. The team took a total of 9 days to do the walk from Lukla to Everest Base camp, during this time we were rewarded with some great weather and tremendous views of the surrounding mountains of the Khumbu Valley. The trek was not without incident, while at Lobuche I ended up coordinating a heli rescue for a sick trekker. The trekker (Bryan) seemed to have classic symptoms of High Altitude Pulmonory Odema, a life-threatening problem that we see often at higher altitudes. The group that Bryan was with didn’t seem too concerned by his condition so I took the bull by the horns. Our doctor Rick did a great job of looking after Bryan (in fact Rick thinks he was having a heart attack which made the rescue all the more important) while I managed to get a heli pick up arranged despite the weather conditions that weren’t great for flying. After a very worrying 3 hrs we finally got Bryan on board a chopper and he was whisked back to Kathmandu. By all accounts Bryan has made a full recovery. Arriving at BC on the14th April, we spent time sorting our bags and equipment that had been transported to BC on the backs of many Yaks. Everything arrived safe and sound apart from a single jar of Olives, which managed to explode over some of my thermals!!! The very next day was the Puja. This very special religious ceremony blesses the expedition, granting us safe passage on the mountain. The Lama walks for 2 days to get to base camp so he can conduct the 2 hour ceremony. During the Puja the Lama chants from ancient scripture in a low, long almost monotone voice. It’s hard not to feel the power that this old frail man has as he turns the pages of his old book without pausing for breath. Finally, on his command, the Sherpa team lift the wooden pole onto the Puja alter and tie prayer flags to secure it in place. It’s always a moving experience but ultimately its light hearted with a feast of cake, biscuits and fruit after….and possibly a little Chang (the local rice beer). Since the Puja I have been hard at work getting the team ready for the mountain. First this was simply finding a couple of missing bags with some equipment, but the last couple of days have seen the team working steadily in the monstrous Khumbu icefall that sits menacingly above base camp barring access to the upper reaches of the mountain. The icefall has many hidden dangers, from huge crevasses to falling blocks of ice and climbers have to be on a high state of alert if they are to safely move through this giant river of ice. The biggest crevasses that we can’t climb around have ladders placed across so that the team can move safely over these huge cracks in the ice, some of which are as big as St Paul’s cathedral in London. The icefall like, all glaciers, is slowly moving down hill. As it does this it talks to us. One can hear the ice creaking and groaning as it moves, in the darkness of dawn this is a very spooky sound if one isn’t used to it. For me I find it strangely soothing and feel safe as if the icefall is talking only to me. I know it’s silly as the danger of the icefall collapsing is there for all of us The Khumbu icefall bars the way to the amazing Western Cwm. This is the huge hidden valley that is formed by the three mountains of Everest, Lhotse and Nupste. These towering giants represent some of the highest peaks in the world and I always feel very humble when I walk underneath them. For me the Western Cwm represents something special and I can’t wait until I get to walk through this serene valley again People often ask if I get bored on the mountain, (its my 7th straight year here and I’m hoping to summit for the 8th time!!). The answer is simply…No….Everest is a magical place, I have spent over a year of my life here at BC and it feels like a second home. The mountain and the icefall are always different, presenting new challenges every year, ones that I relish solving before setting my sights on the lofty heights of the summit once again! KC

Everest Puja

2010-04-17T11:12:00.004+01:00

The Lama on Puja day Kenton and a cute wee Sherpa girl on the trek
The team is now on its 4th day of base camp life and its been pretty busy.
The very day after we arrived the whole team got together for the Puja, this very important cermonary was conducted by the Lama who lives in Pangbouche. The whole expedition was blessed, hoping for a successful and safe expedition. As ever there was much fun during and after, with one or two of the Sherpas having a little too much Chang (local beer)
The next day we all ventured a little way into the icefall, it was a chance for those who haven't been on crampons for a while to get a feel for things again. It also presented the first of the famous Everest ladders to cross, Bonita was especially good crossing these little devils.
Today has been the first real rest day since Dingbouche and it has been a chance to shower and wash dusty socks after the trek to BC. Tomorrow will be back into the icefall with the view to get to the top. Stay posted for how the team get on....with photos of the ladders
Kenton and the team

Base Camp Everest

2010-04-15T15:26:00.001+01:00

Chuck hungry And so it began, Dr Shipman, privates Aldridge and Knight and The Hand set off from the low lands of Dingboche heading up in search off the much fabled monolith that is Chuck Hungry. Officer Knight set off at a blistering pace with everyone in close pursuit. Bonita aka The Hand starts to experience an ever so slightly freakish swelling of her left hand. While this does match her un-usually large feet she is left with a particularly small ‘Jeremy beadlesque’ right hand. After ten minutes of hysterical laughter we all press on for the summit, arriving at 5,550 metres after 5hrs of climbing. For privates Aldridge and Knight this is to be their highest peak of this trip, for Shipman and the Hand simply a walk in the park.
Yak Attack The 8 o’clock start the following morn came and went, a light dusting of snow the previous night greeted the team as they set off over the ridge towards Lebouche. After an hour the valley dipped crossing a makeshift bridge, Yak trains causing minor mayhem, but they were no match for Tom the big Texan from Thailand, his CIA training kicking in to save the group from certain decapitation at the tea stop.
Pacemaker Pete After the tea shop the big climb up to Lebouche passed yet more climber memorial Stupas, and on to the Alpine Inn and settle down for more hot lemon, Ra Ra soup, hash browns and egg friend rice. Whilst we all thought the food was tasty the old man at the next table seemed to disagree. Projectile vomit for starters, the guy was having a minor seizure and his guide was as much use as a chocolate ice axe. Dr Kimble and Kenny Cool were on hand thank the gods, a diagnosis and some swift organisation on their part meant oxygen for second course and a chopper to Kathmandu for desert. Tom’s FBI Paparazzi training meant he was on hand to capture every moment, and ensured safe departure for Pacemaker Pete.
Food for thought In the morning we set off on the final leg to Everest Base Camp, albeit minus Mr and Mrs Shipman, following a funny turn had by Ali during the night. We walk off into sunlight which seems brighter than usual as it reflects from the blanket of freshly laid snow. After two hours following a trail of Yak poo surrounded either side by 8000m walls of snow, rock and ice, we arrive at a sweet tea house spoilt only by the aura of methane from the guarding toilets at the front. Tea makes us realise that Nepali diet is a curious thing, and somewhat expensive, especially for our shrewd travellers. Stale biscuits at £5.50 a pack or boiled eggs at $7 for three, bargains are always to be had, just not by us!
Two further hours of trekking brought our first sight of Everest Base Camp and the magnificent Ice Fall. Scrambling over rocks wondering just how the Yaks and porters carrying their own body weight can manage it. It takes another hour along path sometimes difficult to make out following recent rock falls before we reach the final destination for Aldridge and Knight, marking the start of the main act for all the climbers. Many porters have been busy for days preparing base camp. It is an impressive place with a heated mess and communication tent and a kitchen constructed of rocks strewn all over the glacier. Signed off by Mick and Lewis at Everset BC

Best laid plans

2010-04-12T10:41:00.004+01:00

The team with the Doctors
|The plan has changed. David awoke this morning, and announced that he was going down. David had not slept at all last night, nor the previous night. He explained to us that every time he started to doze off, he felt as if he would stop breathing and then awaken suddenly short of breath. He had an early morning conversation with his roommate, Kenton, and Kenton felt that they should journey across the ridge to Periche to visit the Himalayan Mountain Clinic.
As this plan of action was announced at breakfast, Bonita said that she did not wish to go up either, because she had not had a great sleep, and she would like an additional day of acclimatization as well. Kenton asked the group how they felt, and everyone agreed that an additional day in Dingboche would be a very good idea. Rick’s wife Alma was thrilled with this news, because after two nights of headache, she felt she was just on the verge of catching up with the altitude.
Mick was one member of the team who slept extremely well. Such is the thickness of the walls in Sherpa Ram’s guesthouse, that everyone did hear Mick sleeping and snoring very soundly. Mick had ascended at great speed a small peak to the north of camp yesterday with Kenton. Just prior to their departure, Mick was able to place a rock into Kenton’s backpack. As Kenton emerged from the lodge and hefted his back onto his shoulder, he glanced at several smirk smiles around the table and sensed that something might be amiss. Upon inspection of his backpack, he discovered the rock and removed it with a great sense of triumph. The two departed for their 5,000 meter mountain and were able to reach the peak after one hour and 30 minutes.
Lynette was in her usual very good spirits this morning. There is no greater champion for Australia than Lynette, and she was in very good form at the previous evening’s dinner advising and counselling Rick and Alma on some of her various mountain climbs and campaigns for Women’s Rights.
Tom started the morning assembling a regiment of Sherpa porters and instructing them how to salute in unison and then to stand at attention. He then retired to the kitchen to photograph Ram’s wife at work with various bahinis (little sisters) as they furiously prepared the breakfast orders barked through the wall by Ram. Tom then joined David and Kenton for the medical evacuation trek across to Periche.
We arrived too early in Periche for the clinic and were told to wait until 9AM. This left the 3 expeditioneers time to enjoy a cup of tea and to reflect upon the monument to fallen climbers who have tried to summit Everest. The two conical halves with a polished aluminium finish and names etched on the inside was somewhat sobering to study. Kenton pointed to one climber who he had known. We all saw Mallory and Irvin and so many Sherpas who had lost their lives on a mountain to which we are all heading. Tom took some photos of Kenton and then took a private moment to reflect on some of the names on the monument and to pay respect to their sacrifices.
The clinic officially opened and David was admitted. Tom and Kenton kindly requested to accompany their comrade-in-arms, and the doctor agreed. David had an excellent heart rate of 55 and it was decided that he was suffering from Chain Stokes, which was a form of obstructive sleep apnea, or desperate choking, after the conscious brain had gone to sleep and the subconscious brain waited too long to breathe due to the lack of Carbon Dioxide at altitude. We were all pleased to hear that a treatment of 250 mg of Diamox in the morning and evening should set David right and get him a good night sleep. Tom noted quite quickly that David’s difficulties started immediately after encountering Beryl and the bicycle shop attendant in Deboche.
Meanwhile, Tom has been spending a lot of time in the various internet cafes enroute. The saga that is unfolding has been receiving considerable advice and counsel from all members of the expedition. It appears that Tom’s girlfriend, Krittika, in Thailand feels that a two month expedition is too long for the two to be apart, so two days ago, she announced that she was trekking to Base Camp to join the expedition. Tom immediately requested advice from his expeditionary companions. He was advised that a 42 kilo girlfriend with a strong heart was certainly able to make the climb to Base Camp. Bonita has become particularly keen on advising Tom in this issue, because of Tom’s previous interest in advising Bonita about her Tom in England. Bonita confided in Tom that her Tom was overjoyed to see his name mentioned for the first time in her blog and promptly sent her 5 emails confirming his love for her.
Meanwhile, Apa Sherpa arrived last night in the lodge next door. He was meant to be carrying Sir Edmund Hillary’s ashes to disperse on the summit of Mount Everest, but apparently the relevant Lama decreed that this would not be appropriate. It now seems that the ashes will be placed in a Stupa near the Khumjung School which was founded by Sir Edmund near Namche Bazaar.
Today, Rick, Mick, Louis, Bonita have departed to climb Chhukhung Ri to the North at 5,550 meters. Lynette departed some time later to the North as well to keep fit and get some tea in Chhukhung. Alma was discovered sewing the Pente sack that Rick has been complaining is in disrepair, learning Nepalese from RAM and photographing the neighborhood.
Thus ends the report of today’s expeditionary activities on our ascent of Everest. Respectfully submitted by TOM 12 April 2010 www.claytor.com/everest

Stripy Mouse at large in Nepal

2010-04-11T11:44:00.003+01:00

Mick and myself at 5100m above Dingbouche
The team is coming to the end of a rest day in Dingbouche after a couple of days on the dusty trails from Namche.
Its been an eventful few days with myself (Kenton) hiking for a couple of hours in the dark after staying late in Namche to sort the communication equipment. I left at 5.45 and spent most of the walk in the dark. It sounds grim but in fact it was really enjoyable with no yaks on the path and cool temps. I finally arrived at 8.30ish much to the surprise of the rest of the team.
The walk so far has been fairly uneventful which is good news. Trottys ankle is holding up to the trek so fingers crossed it will be fine for the climb (She badly sprained it a few weeks back).
The only drama has been stripy mouse. Unknown to any of us he sneaked off in Monjo to go climbing on his own. No one noticed until it hit me while I was walking in the night from Namche. I hasty bag check proved he was not with us any more. We put the Khumbu bush radio to good effect and we finally located him in Namche where he is currently in the Sherwi Khangba lodge waiting for some friends to trek up to BC with. How he made it from Monjo to Namche on his own is still a mystery, but I’m sure he will have a few tails to tell. (In case no one knows stripy is my stuffed mouse that I have had all my life, to say I was concerned about his disappearance is to put it mildly. A Huge thanks to all that helped find him)
Finally I can’t post this with out mentioning that fact that Mick and I broke the 5000m mark for the first time on this trip today (see above pic). We spent a couple of hours hiking while the rest of the (lazy) team spent time in the sun!!
We should be arriving in Base Camp in a couple of days, that will end the trek part of the expedition and finally we will be looking upwards to the summit of the world!!!
Thanks for reading Guys Kenton and the Everest Team!!

Everest BBC link

2010-04-09T07:42:00.001+01:00

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00rx73j/5_live_Drive_08_04_2010/

Moving on up the Khumbu

2010-04-09T05:52:00.007+01:00

The Everest team left Namche Bizaar today on route for Debouche. Yesterday was spent at rest with a few folk heading up the hill to get some great views of Everest, while others ate apple pie and Chocolate cake!!!!(Bad David and Tom).
The team all set off just after 8am this morning while I (Kenton) stayed in Namche for a while longer trying to sort out a comms issue with the Bgan (something which is proving very frustrating to say the least). I hope to catch up with them tonight.
In the mean time there was an interesting debate going on between Nepal and China about where the height of Everest should be measured too. China says the rock that lies under the snow, Nepal says the top of the snow. It looks like Nepal will have its way which could mean that Everest will become 13feet higher than before. You can hear me speak about this on BBC Radio 5, forward to about 49 mins in.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00rx73j/5_live_Drive_08_04_2010/
Fingers crossed all the comms will be working and I catch the team today....if all this works the next blog will be from the Satellite connection.
Be safe all Kenton

DG Team In Namche

2010-04-07T11:41:00.008+01:00

The Everest team are now 2 days into their ten day trek to Basecamp and things are all going really well. We are all currently at Namche Bizaar, the biggest of the Khumbu Villages. The trek has been pretty hot and dusty but I think I speak for all when I say that the scenery is simply stunning....
We are going to spend a 2 nights here letting our bodies get use to the altitude, The team is currently at 3400m...that only leaves another 5500m to the summit!!!!!! That's almost 5 vertical miles!!!! We got to see the mountain for the first time today....Bonita had stopped a little earlier and pointed a mountain out to David and Lewis, "WOW looks its huge" they were all taking photos when I asked what they are looking at..."Why its Everest" I chuckled and put them straight...when they did finally see Everest its still so far away it looks tiny. "I think mine looked better" said Bonita!!!!
Tomorrow is a rest day, but we will do a short hike to get some good views of the surrounding Mountains Stay safe out there KC and the DG team

Everest Team leaves for Lulka

2010-04-05T16:42:00.005+01:00

The team is finally all together after almost 18months of planning. Lynette, Bonita, David, Tom, Rick are all climbing and we have Alma, Mick and Lewis trekking with us. I really couldn't ask for a better team, I know we are going to have a fab time on this trip. After a rather testing time today with all the communication equipment it looks like we are all set (well nearly) for the trek to basecamp. We will be on the 1st flight to Lukla tomorrow morning and then from there we will be heading to Monjo for our first night of the trek. After that we head to Namche were we will spend a couple of days acclimatizing. The next update will be from Namche so thanks for tuning in and a bigger thanks for all those that are showing support for this expedition. Take care KC

Everest is GO

2010-04-02T12:08:00.002+01:00

Hi All A very quick blog from the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu. I arrived yesterday after a great flight from Heathrow (I was lucky enough to get upgraded on both legs!!! WOOHOO) but as ever felt somewhat jaded by the time I stepped of the plane. But nothing that a good 10hrs in bed didn't sort out!! Its great to be back in Nepal and to catch up with friends. Half the team are already in town and are all looking super well and very fit, so much so that I'm a little concerned about keeping up with them all!! The next few days will be spent doing loads of little tasks, as ever there are a million and one loose ends that need to be tied before we fly to Lukla on the morning of the 6th. I'll be blogging almost daily so you can follow progress of the Dream Guides Everest crew here. Take care KC

Cheeky day out in the hills

2010-03-22T20:44:00.005Z

some beautiful creamy snow...hhmmmmm
Some of the best days in the hills sneak up on you when you least expect it. Driving into work I got a call to say that my clients wanted to cancel, it was a last minute affair and no money had changed hands which was a pain. I approached Chamoinx with no idea what to do with the day, a quick phone call to the Benson's changed all that. 2 strong coffees later we still didn't have a plan but the company was good fun so I felt relaxed and happy, the all of a sudden Pete stated we were off to the Midi to 'check it out'
At the lift we bumped into Graham 'Streaky' Desroy, Ginger Dave, Pete Rowlands and Ginger Ben.....lots of Ginger going on I know!!!! The first pitch from the arete proved much better than we all thought, some super nice creamy snow and few tracks, we opted for a Gros Rogon and it turned out to be amazing, I don't think I've ever seen Laura Benson grin so much!!!
At the train station we were all looking at our watches was there time for a 2nd lap??? Due to the late start our backs were going to be against the wall. We managed (with a bit of running) to catch the 2.30 lift up, I clipped into my bindings at 3.10, the last train was 4pm....it was going to be tight!!! The ski was possibly even better than the first time, Laura was even heard to say "I don't care if we have to walk down, that was SO worth it after one pitch" The skiing really was great, huge fast GS turns in boot depth cream...hmmm it was Divine.
3.50pm and all of us were waiting for the train at Montevers......JOB DONE Ah yes just one thing left, a cheeky beer to finish, now that's a good day!! A happy Pete Benson

BBC NEWS

2010-03-16T07:39:00.003Z

A short piece here from the BBC about our next Dream Guides Everest Expedition The team will be leaving for Kathmandu at the end of the month, keep an eye on the latest news here on the site for all the updates and photos
http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/gloucestershire/hi/people_and_places/newsid_8562000/8562175.stm
Happy Climbing Team Dream Guides

Busy Times at Dream Guides

2010-03-14T17:53:00.002Z

A happy Kenton, Lou and Jo Jo in Italy
With the 2010 Everest expedition looming just around the corner things are getting all a little hectic at Dream Guides. It's still business as normal however with myself and Guy busy working away in the Alps. This week, I (Kenton) have spent a couple of days with our old friend Seb Chivers and his good friend Sarah. We spent a day in Cogne and a great albeit cold day in Megeve climbing a grade 5 icefall that I've not done before, it was Seb's first grade 5....top effort lad!!!
Mid week saw a quick trip to London for a few meetings. Although not our usual environment, it proved to be a cool 48hrs and I'm hoping it will all be productive in the long run.
The last two days I've been with Jo Jo and Lou, first time climbers and what a time it has been. First they went out with Neil Brodie who gave them a grounding in climbing ice on Friday and then we had a wee hit on Cascade Lillaz on Saturday, awesome effort by the girls!!! Finally today we climbed the Aig Du Toula as the girls first alpine summit, outstanding views from the top!!!
While I've been climbing ice, Guy has been screaming around on the skis and has been finding some great snow even though it's not dumped for a while. He reports good snow high up on the Valley Blanche still and nice spring like conditions in Italy today.
It's still not too late to join the fun in the Alps this Winter, check the site for what courses we have running!!! Enjoy Guys KC

Valley Blanche on steroids

2010-03-07T10:37:00.007Z

The Dream Guides Back Country Intro week had been great, even though the weather had been a little bit on the nasty side.
Guy had taken the gang on the back of La Tour where they found great snow, and then on Tuesday a sneaky Crouche-Berrard tour. All where raving about fresh tracks in good snow when I met everyone on Wednesday morning for the last 3 days of the course, I was feeling the pressure!! Torri putting in the effort
The first day I was with Larry, Simon, Torri and Becca I had decided to go to the Grand Montets and spend a little bit of time on crevasse rescue before a short skin in search of fresh snow. We skinned for about 1.5hrs towards the Col Du Passon, we were behind a number of other teams so there was a good track in place. Becca showed her fitness and set a good pace up to the lunch spot.
Not many folk come back down the same way on the Col Du Passon but that's exactly what we did and despite some poor visibility we had a great run in nice snow laying fresh tracks all the way down. Becca and Simon looking forward to the ski
Thursday was pretty poor weather, in fact it was worse than that. I opted for a short safe ski tour in the Contamines area. The skin up was in total white out and then to add insult it started to snow. Finally we made the Col and sat to eat a chilly lunch. It was Torri who said that she heard voices first and then a head popped over the cornice, it was the first of 24 French Soldiers who had skinned up the way we were to ski down.
The snow was good but the visibility was terrible, everyone did a great job getting down in one piece. As we got into the trees there was at last a little contrast and we all made the most of the spring like snow, before a cheeky drink in the little rustic cafe at the bottom.
The last day proved to be the best. We had booked the Midi Cable car and at 9.40 we were whisked up to the heady heights of the Valley Blanche, the world's most famous off piste run. We started with a Vrai Valley Blanche, which isn't often done and so we had fresh tracks down it which put smiles on the faces of everyone.
After skiing down through the Geant Icefall we put skins on and spent an hour or so heading up to the Col Du Tour, despite being beaten to the first tracks back down I think we can sum up the run with what Torri said..."The best ski run EVER" Fresh tracks
A quick ski down the rest of the Valley Blanche saw the team in the bar at the bottom, the final verdict on the week....."The best"...."Awesome"....Bloody Brill" Thanks to Becca, Torri, Simon, Larry and Guy for making it so good. Take Care KC

Chamonix New Routes

2010-02-21T17:17:00.007Z

Topo for Sector Highlands
It started way back at the beginning of January, Bullock and I were at a loose end so we roped Jon Griffith to take some pictures while we climbed at the Rive Gauche. We hoped to do a short route called Home Wet Home, first climbed years ago by Thierry Renault.
We set the abseil rope up and I disappeared over the edge first, by the time I reached the end of the rope it was clear that we where in the wrong place, phoning Nick at the top I stated this, adding that the climb above my head looked loose, hard and dangerous. What I had forgotten is that is exactly what Bullock likes in his climbing.
Some three hours later we had a new route under our belts....Homeward Bound is probably not going to be come a classic but it opened the flood gates of new routes on the Rive Gauche. The only bummer to all of this is that I had to go to America on a speaking engagement so I missed most of the fun.
The main team down there was Nick Bullock and Pete (Piggy) Benson, between them they climbed all the new routes with various partners. The names of all these new routes all where linked to the original route of 'Home Wet Home', so such things as 'Bringing Home the Bacon' and 'Happy House' came into being. Kenton in action on pitch one
When I came back from the States I was faced with a lots of work so there was no chance of returning to add any other routes, but finally last Monday I got my chance. Nick and I met Piggy at 8.30 we caught the cable car to the mid station at the Grand Montet and started the hike in, its not far, but it was funny when Nick found out he had left his skins for his skis behind.
Both Nick and Pete had their eye on a thing crack line that appeared on some photographs right of a previous route they had climbed. As Nick rapped over the edge you could see his eyes light up in the knowledge that we had found a line that was going to be climbable.
Piggy had pitch one, which consisted of a thinly iced slab into a delightful step crack, with an extra 1 cm of ice it would have been easy, instead we were left with very insecure climbing which had a nasty snow mushroom which knocked him off when he tried to clear it away.
Pitch two was mine, a wonderful wall with a steep crack on the left was followed by a second chimney and then some delicate slab climbing to reach a small snow patch and a belay. Bullock giving it stacks on the headwall crack
The final pitch was always going to be the crux and so it proved. An epic battle by Nick yielded some of the best climbing I've done in ages....a thin steep crack with little in the way of foot holds, the protection only just enough. It was so nearly an on sight but a popped tool denied Nick of the glory. Following the pitch there was blood all over the top section, the brutally cold conditions we were climbing in meant every-time Nick put something metal in his mouth it ripped his lips when he took it out again. Despite the fall it was one of the best displays of climbing I've ever seen. The Head Wall Crack
Gaining the top of the crag there was a certain satisfaction among all 3 of us....it had been a great day, although incredibly cold. Nick and Pete thought it represented the last of the good lines left to be climbed on the crag, and hence the name "Encore une Fois" Beautiful way to finish the day off

Valentines day blog

2010-02-14T15:54:00.005Z

Perhaps not something you really expect from Dream Guides, we are normally all about the WOW of steep ice of bottomless powder snow, and yes there has been loads of both this year but today was a little different.
After 9 days out of 10 working or playing in the hills today Feb 14th was going to be a catch up day. Guy and Steph headed out to the states for a week of R and R and I'm sure a little romance together, while I had to settle for opening a card from my lovely wife Jazz who is back in the UK. After a morning on the computer tending to outstanding admin the blue sky was too much so I grab my touring kit and headed out to the Point D'Andey.
Its a simple skin up, I found myself in the cloud to start with, water droplets condensed on my Jacket and Bobble hat as I made steady progress up, then suddenly I came out into a brilliant clear blue sky. All around was a sea of cloud, looking west there was nothing apart from the soft duvet like appearance of the cloud rippling off to the horizon, to the south the rolling white mountains appeared like icebergs, while to the east the sharp peaks of the Mont Blanc Range cut their way skyward in defiance of the serene cloud layer that lay below.
As I made my way to the Madonna that stands at the top I could see a couple of folk who where already up there, looking out at the beautiful vista that lay all around them.
When I got up there I was greeted like a long lost son by an elderly couple. As ever I was embarrassed to say that I was English and couldn't speak French, the old gentleman wasn't put off, in fact finding out that I was English he started telling me the names of all the peaks. His wife poured me some hot tea from their battered old flask and we shared some biscuits. Sitting under the protective look of the Madonna, words weren't needed as all three of us soaked up the glory of what lay before us, it was simply stunning, yet totally soothing.
As I prepared to ski down they asked if I could take a photo of them both in front of the Madonna. As I did they embraced and kissed, surrounded by nothing but the beauty of nature.
Before I left the lady plucked one of the sun faded flowers held by the Madonna and presented it too me as a Valentines gift, "keep it safe she said and she will keep you safe" she uttered as she kissed me goodbye.
As I skied down I reflected on the 10minutes I had spent with the couple,who were probably in their mid 60's they had hiked to this spot to share a few precious moments together on this, the most beautiful of Valentines days. To me they oozed love and affection even after a lifetime of being together. I promised myself there and then that I would do everything in the world to be the same with Jazz when we are both getting old and frail, a life times bond that's unbreakable.
Racking my skis on the car, once again back in the cold of the cloud I thought about the 3 things most precious to me.
My beautiful wife Jazzy who I couldn't be with today, My Family and Friends and finally my beloved mountains, the 3 things that really make my life complete.
I managed some of that today...I just hope its enough to keep me going until the next time.
Kenton

Three days in Heaven

2010-02-14T09:13:00.006Z

Its not often that everything falls into place and 'one of those days' occur but Friday was one of them. After almost freezing to death the day before at Le Reposoir I made the decision to head back to Italy where Seb, Nigel, and Rob from PMSS, Neil Brodie and myself had been on Wednesday climbing. Nigel trying to look composed before the next pitch
Despite the cold on Thursday we had done two great days Ice Climbing, the 3 PMSS crew were firing on all cylinders even though this was the first Ice since last year. Seb had clearly been on some training programme while Nigel and Rob were their normal determined selves despite Rob being attacked by Monkey's after the first climb.....no I didn't understand either The final day Rob had decided to use the most of some great snow and ski with Allen and small Rob (also from PMSS) so it was just Seb Nigel and myself that traveled to Val Saverenche to climb Antaras, a climb Seb and I had attempted a couple of years ago. We were greeted by blue skis and good cheap coffee when we drove through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, Nigel did a great job getting the car to the parking spot despite a little fresh snow. Seb finishing pitch two of Antaras
There was no one else around, the valley was completely quite, total solitude. The climb was in super condition and even caught a little bit of sun which offset the cold temps. Both Nigel and Seb were pushed by the climb, there was even a power grunt from Seb at one stage when he started to pump out on the 2nd pitch. All 3 of us found ourselves in the cave below the final steep pitch, it was almost in the bag. 2 Years ago in a similar situation the top pitch collapsed while Seb and I were looking at it, this time there was no mistakes. Traversing out from shadows of the cave I blasted up into sunlight. Seb and Nigel made quick efficient work of following and before we knew it all 3 of were topping up tans at the top!! Rob in the trees of Le Reposoir
Back at the car we layed out the ropes to dry on the roof and ate lunch in the warmth of the sun commenting about the joys of the climb and the simpleness of the ethos of climbing. To finish we drove to the head of the valley to get a beer and found two super tame cute foxes who scampered around the car hoping for some of our long gone sandwiches. The cunning fox
I spend hundreds of days a year in the hills but only have two or three days a year like the one on Friday, everything was right, everything was beautiful. Be safe Kenton

Only in the Alps

2010-02-03T20:26:00.009Z

WOW WOW WOW.....What a few days its been The gang at Dream Guides have been pretty busy on all fronts. Saturday and Sunday gave simply EPIC skiing conditions, many said Saturday was the day of the season so far in Chamonix, (I didn't want to say that it didn't match up to the 6 feet of snow in Jackson in 6 days I had the week before). Sunday found me at the Grand Montet with a group from London and conditions were still fantastic, although the -22 at the top plus wind chill was a little much (I frost nipped my cheek). Most of the group said that the runs from the top station were some of the best they have ever done! Kenton on the beautiful first pitch of La Dame Du Foron
Guy spent Monday and Tuesday working on an off piste course and they had some amazing conditions to savour, early feedback was received in the manner of huge smiles!! Tuesday saw nick Bullock and myself dispatched a rather spicy ice climb called La Dame de Foron III 6. A very pleasurable first pitch led to a small column of ice up to a roof with an ice fringe that lead to a super top ice section. It was a good effort by Nick on the tricky mixed section on the second pitch. Bullock gunning for the ice on pitch two
Finally today was a day of contrast. Nick, Neil Broadie and myself set off to do what we thought was a new route, silly us of course hadn't looked at the guide. DOH. Anyway Goulotte Des Gets II 4+ was a great little outing and as we made our way down in the sun Neil suggested going rock climbing....what an idea. So today was 2 pitches of lovely ice followed by a quick cup of tea and then 3 pitces of sunny rock (T Shirts and sunglasses even!!!) Brodie wondering what madness Kenton is doing
I really can't think of too many places where you can ski great powder one day, climb amazing ice the next and then finally climb ice and rock in the same day. It really only happens in the Alps. Sun kissed rock climbing this afternoon!!
Take Care Team Dream Guides

Stateside

2010-01-23T03:21:00.004Z

Jazzy in the Snow Kenton and Jazz the Storm trooper The last week has seen myself (Kenton) and Jazz visting Jackson Hole in the States. I came across to do a presentation on behalf of the YPO at their family and friends ski weekend. It was an amazing weekend with some great folk present from lots of different parts of the States and even a couple of families from Australia. As well as myself talking there were a few ski legends also talking at the event. Gordy Peifer, Brant Moles, Jeremy Nobis and the snow boarder Rob Kingswill (aka Kinger), if you don't recognise these names google them and sit back and watch some jaw dropping footage, these boys really did define Alaskan Skiing!!! The man on the right is the Legend that is Gordy Peifer, not sure who the tall Muppet is!! The event finished on Monday morning. Since then we have been skiing in the resort with the exception of Wednesday when I hiked Glory Peak Twice with Tim Connelly to grab some shockingly good powder followed by a short skin to drop into Avalanche Bowl and again some world class powder turns. With only a few days left before home we are hoping that the snow keeps falling and that the skiing stays as good as it was today. be safe and enjoy Kenton

New Route In Chamonix

2010-01-11T09:09:00.006Z

Nick Wondering why the ice is so thin Nick Low on the Pitch Kenton eyeing the next move Thursday was a day of climbing and cold showers with Nick Bullock and Jon Griffith. We decided to climb a line called Home Wet Home near the Grand Montet Ski area, the only problem was that we didn't know where it went. I abseiled in first down a steep poorly iced groove line that to me looked pretty hard and nasty. It was clear to both of us that it wasn't the route that we were looking for but Bullock being slightly more unhinged than me thought it looked wonderful so I had no problems handing the lead over to him. Almost 2hours later I heard the shout of safe drift down. The climbing proved to be very insecure thin ice with very poor protection, just the sort of thing that Nick likes. At the crux the ice was so thin that the first tooth of the axe was barley in, a fall here and Nick would have stripped most of the gear and taken a monster. It was a very steady lead from the old man!! The route which we think is new was great climbing on a strong line which would be much easier with more ice!! Once finished Jon and I walked over to the classic Grade 6 Ice fall of Nuit Blanche for a quick work out. It proved somewhat more involved than we were expecting with Jon having to retreat due to the Hydro system dumping hundreds of thousands of gallons of water down the route, most of it going straight down Jons neck. Luckily Nick came to the rescue lowering a rope down that we could climb out in the dark. All in all a bit of an epic, Jon bared up well despite being stood soaking wet in sub zero conditions for almost 2 hrs. Thanks to Jon for the photos (check www.alpinexposures.com) and Nick for the rescue!! Be safe Kenton and Team Dream Guides

Happy Faces

2010-01-05T12:00:00.002Z

They say a face can tell a thousand stories, and looking at these pictures I have to agree. 2 days of very good skiing in the Chamonix area has put a smile on the faces of all who were there. Sunday was spent on the Toula Glacier high above Courmayeur in Italy. It really is one of my fav areas to ski, often away from the crowds with simply stunning views out across Italy. Its blessed with great snow most of the time and even better coffee. The team was an Adventure Base/Dream guides gaggle of Andy Egg and the Lovely Charlotte, Guy, Steph and myself. Despite a slightly crusty first pitch the glacier let us have pitch after pitch of creamy wonderful snow, we even had a cheeky stop for that coffee at lunch!! Monday was back in Chamonix. It had dumped all night with nearly 30cm in town itself, the poor visibility meant we had to find trees and the Mid Station of the Midi was just the place. Coming out of the station we were greeted by at least 50cm of the lightest snow I have ever seen in Europe, it was indescribable. The long shot from the station to the tree line was something I will remember for ever, every single turn was a face shot, Pete Benson was heard to say "I only stopped because I couldn't breath" With more snow on the way it looks like Chamonix is def the place to be right now for the Powder!! Be safe out there Kenton and Team DG

Great Snow

2010-01-02T13:32:00.002Z

Happy new year to all of you out there!! Despite rumours that the Alps don't have good snow at the moment Chamonix and surrounding area has experienced some great Ski conditions these last few days. Yesterday saw Andy, Charlotte, Jazz and myself skiing at Courmayeur and we found great conditions. In places almost knee deep super fine powder gave whoops of delight from the team. The off piste was fantastic but the pistes were also in wonderful conditions with a few inches of new snow on top of nicely groomed runs. The ice is also finally coming into condition. Lowering temperatures means that the icefalls are firming up. I climbed in Cogne the day before new year and although a little damp Cascade Lillaz was in good conditions. A number of other icefalls were looking like they were climbable as well. In short it looks like the winter is about to kick off in a major way, both on the ski and ice climbing front. All of us at Dream Guides can hardly wait, in fact we haven't been waiting so come and join us in the snow. Team Dream Guides!

First Powder Turns!

2009-12-03T15:57:00.004Z

Just a quick one to say, we've just been skiing powder!!! Pretty good going for 2nd December, and especially only 36 hours after leaving the beach in Thailand. Needless to say the temperature difference was a bit of a shock to the system. Heading up to la Tour for an (almost) pre-dawn raid, it was the usual first day of the winter faff session with the touring kit - everything that will come so naturally in a few short weeks always feels horribly alien the first time you use it all again. Skis, skins, gloves, clips, poles, so much kit! what boot setting? how do the touring bindings work again? I'm sure my skins shouldn't be this sticky! Skis are looking pretty rusty - maybe should have serviced them at the end of last winter. Oh my god, my hand's are freezing ... dropped a pole, this feels pretty weird etc etc. There were no land speed records, but our hands finally thawed out, and we got a good rhythm going for an hour and a half of steady uphill work ... followed by POWDER TURNS back home in snow that was so much better than we expected! It might have been an early start to the day, but we were back in the office by mid morning, ready to get back to work. What a great way to start the season ... :o)

Thailand - Rock Action

2009-11-17T05:47:00.003Z

Rock Climbing Adventures in Thailand Chamonix’s rock climbing is awesome, and we definitely can’t complain about life in the Dream Guides ‘office’! But sometimes you just need a little limestone jug pulling and a break from the Valley to keep your sanity intact. So, November has been dedicated to cragging, and the eternally frustrating pursuit of ‘just one more grade ... ‘ It really is hard to imagine a more perfect holiday (other than possibly heli-skiing in Alaska): Idyllic white sand beaches, beautiful turquoise sea, hot sunshine, fresh and healthy food, seriously spicy curry, and some of the most spectacular limestone cliffs to play on. Rock climbing Thai style takes some beating. We (Guy and Steph) decided as a last minute sort-of-honeymoon to head back to Thailand for three weeks of rock, sun, sand and cragging. We’d spent 6 weeks here last year, so were torn as to whether to explore somewhere new. But then, when things are this good, why change? Tonsai beach can only be reached by boat, and the crags are all accessible by foot. Although it’s actually part of the mainland, the beach, and its neighbouring ‘posh’ resort, Railay, feel like a remote island. Tonsai itself is a funny mix of ‘Climbing Mecca’ – populated by some of the world’s best sport climbers, and ‘Backpacker Heaven’ (Hell?) – populated by a steady stream of travellers who think they’ve found ‘The Beach’. At 7am, beach-side activity alternates between staggering youngsters on the way home from a night of buckets and peace cake, and keen climbers on the way to work their latest project before the sun – or the problem - knocks them back. The two worlds collide – in perfect harmony – at Freedom Bar, where Tonsai Wall starts and you can belay with a beer in hand, or simply lay back and watch the sun set while the experts make 8s look easy. The climbing in Thailand is a steep, steep jug fest. The holds are huge (at least in the grades we climb!), but the brute force required to get to them requires some serious stamina. An afternoon of battling endlessly in Wild Kingdom is enough to put us both out of action for 2 days. ‘Pumped’ takes on a whole new meaning in Thailand! But that’s half the fun. It’s a totally different style of climbing to anything in Europe, and once you get your head (and arms) into the idea of a 3d climbing route, where even the 5s are overhanging, heel hooks are your most-used move, and you should never forget to Look Behind You! there’s no going back. I have a funny feeling that 3 weeks is just not going to be enough ...

Hectic Weekend

2009-11-09T10:13:00.004Z

Its a bright sunny morning here in Llanberis, N Wales. I'm sitting in Stu and Miranda's living room drinking tea after a cool ride up and over the Llanberis pass and feeling pretty good about things after the weekend.
What a weekend it was. It all started on Friday with an early start up to see the gang at Intermarketing in Leeds, it proved to be an interesting and vibrant meeting, and I'm really hoping we may be able to form a work partnership together in the future. Straight from there it was an interview with Neil from the Yorkshire Post before a cheeky gym session in the hotel, I knew it was going to be a busy rest of the weekend with no chance of any exercise.
Friday night was great fun, there was a gaggle of the usual suspects from old gathered for a few beers and a curry in downtown Leeds. Total respect for Mike Rudden making the effort to come down from Edinburgh for the evening.
Saturday morning was the big presentation to the Leeds Alumni. I had been asked to present at the annual Lunch, which was a great honour but I have to say I was slightly nervous. The crowd there were simply amazing and greeted me with open arms which really helped calm me down. Thanks to those who asked knowledgeable questions and an even bigger thanks for those who put time and effort into putting the whole thing together. Lunch was amazing, it was just a shame that Jazz and I had to cut it short and drive to N Wales that afternoon.....in the driving rain!!
Saturday evening was totally epic but for all the right reasons. Stu Mac had asked me to present at the Plas-y-Brenin Expedition Symposium. The event was super cool with Stu doing a great job of putting the whole weekend together. Everyone seemed to really enjoy the evening talk, once again thanks to all those who came up after expressing kind words about how they enjoyed the presentation.
Sunday I gave 2 workshops in the morning about 'going light' which were really well attended, and then 2 in the afternoon based on 'dealing with Altitude'. The whole weekend finally came to a close at 5pm and I was totally knackered.
It had been one of the best 72hrs I've had in ages, but it was only made possible by all those who helped out behind the scenes and of course all the people who came to hear me speak....I hope I didn't disappoint. Finally a big hug to Jazz who supported me through out this rather hectic weekend.
Thanks KC

Sun Rock on Kalymnos

2009-11-01T12:46:00.005Z

The Island of Kalymnos has been on my Radar for a few years now so when the chance of a trip there with Roger Knox and Tim Connerly came up I jumped at the chance to go. For those of you who don't know, Kalymnos is a small Greek Island close to Kos and in the last 10 years its proved to be one of the worlds very best sports climbing venues. Its's pretty easy to get to from the UK (and the States for that matter) although one can get bogged down with a long layover in Athens if your not too careful. Once at Kos its easy to get to the island itself via ferry and taxi. Roger and I turned up late on the Thursday night so it wasn't until the next day that we saw and rock and WOW is there some rock. I have never seen so much in one concentrated area that is such good quality. Its all Limestone and generally very steep, that said there is a great spread of grades from Fr 3 to 9a and above with a good selection of stared routes everywhere. There was a huge squad of folk that I knew over there, these included friends from Sheffield, Bristol, Leeds, N Wales, London, Chamonix, Slovenia, Canada, The States and a few more. This made for very sociable evenings in the bars and restaurants and much heckling at the crags during the day. Personally I've not been climbing much this year so I found myself very unfit but this didn't detract from having a great time, in fact its inspired me to get fit once again. The highlight of the trip had to be Roger flashing his first ever 6C and then redpointing 7A the same day, it was an awesome effort from the man that says WOW alot! It truly was a great week that finished far too quickly. I learnt alot and I will be writing about this in the next few blogs so please stay posted. In the mean time all I can say is book the flights for next year and I'll see you there. Thanks KC and the DG team!

Great Scottish Walk

2009-10-18T14:39:00.002+01:00

I was recently asked to write a short piece about my fav walking route in the UK. It ws something I had to think a wee bit about but below is what I came up with, I hope that one day you may also enjoy the walk like I have in the past. One of the walks that I would seriously love to do again (remember I don’t spend too much time in the UK now) is up in the Fannachs in the NW of Scotland. My story started with what was the first complete ascent of Skyscraper Buttress Direct a hard winter route on Sgurr Na Clach Geala way back in the winter of 95/96. It was my first time in the Fannachs and I was taken away by how remote and quite they felt. I’m afraid sitting here I don’t have any maps to hand so please forgive me if your trying to follow my description and you get lost.. It starts from a lay-by on the A832 and over the next 12 or 13 miles (round trip) it takes in some of the finest scenery in the NW highlands, often with out another sole in sight. The main aim is to reach to top of Sgurr Na Clach Geala, which at 1093 is the highest point in the Fannachs. The name means peak of the white stone, which comes from the Quartzite which makes up the summit block, and also gives the top of the impressive east Corrie some steep yet positive climbing as I found all those years ago. In combination with the neighbouring Munroe of Meall a' Chrasgaidh and Sgurr Nan it gives an excellent ridge walk, the final section between Meall a’ Chrasgaidh and Sgurr Na Clach Geala is great fun never too hard but with a feeling of airiness about it. One of the things I love about the area is that the paths are few and in distinct so the walking can be hard work sometimes and often a tad boggy, but it feels real and you can be sure its never busy. It’s quite a long day maybe 8hours or so for the 12 miles and well over 1000m of ascent, so it’s not an easy day but its not too technical There are great views all around but especially to the North where on a fine day you can catch sight of An Teallach. It really is a great day out.....go and do it!!! Kenton

Manaslu ski photos

2009-10-10T11:04:00.005+01:00

Here are a couple of photos of the trip.... 1. Dream Guides uber-guide Rob Casserley on the summit 2. Rob and I just before skiing down 3. Me skiing at 8100m! Just a taster really! Many thanks for your interest and many thansk to Steph for updating the blog throughout the trip. Cheers, Guy

Mountaineering Memories!

2009-10-08T13:18:00.008+01:00

Many thanks to everyone who filled in our feedback form!

Here's the best photo - of Noisette and guide, Tim, celebrating getting to the summit of Mont Blanc (cheers Brad)

... and the best memory comes from Matt:

So, we had just climbed the Petit Fourche and were walking back accross a glacier to the Swiss hut (name escapes me.) We were lowered down a particularly steep section after which Jonny slipped about 100m down the snow face before he managed to self arrest. Thinking this was our last moment of excitement we set of on the final stretch towards the hut. Jim (guide) in the lead the brothers Jonny and James in the middle and myself in the rear. Jim spotted a potentially thin section of snow and preceeded to jump over it and instruct the brothers to follow. I saw the section but instead of jumping over it I completely misjudged my take-off position and ended up putting my foot straight in the middle. For a fraction of a second the thought crossed my mind that the snow was actually quite thick and more than capable of taking my weight. Suddenly everything went white! The rope did it's job and I somehow managed to jab a crampon into the wall of what turned out to be a very narrow but incredibly deep crevasse. I was suspended about a metre below the lip and probably 10m above the bottom - soaked in the melting snow (which has somehow managed to get down my trousers) and somewhat concerned how I was going to get out having dropped my ice axe as soon as I fell. Fortunatly my axe was attached by the wrist strap and I was able to haul myself out to be greeted by raucous laughter from Jonny and James, the latter of which had been walking along, felt the rope go tight and then looked around only to see that I wasn't there anymore!

There's 5% off whatever your next Dream Guides adventure for you both ... get in touch to make a plan.

Thanks again to everyone for a brilliant summer, and look forward to see you soon!

Stephx

Over & Out

2009-09-30T17:56:00.005+01:00

The Manaslu team are bugging out and going home ... Speaking to Guy yesterday, they weren't sure if they would be getting a helicopter back from Samagown or walking back. But either way, they're packed up and on their way home. Safe, sound, exhausted, and looking forward to getting back to civilisation.

I don't think the reality of their achievement has kicked in yet, but I'm sure a hot shower, good food, and sleep will bring it all home - and before they know it they'll be celebrating in true Kathmandu style with enormous steaks, large beers, and really good coffee and cake in Helenas.

Enjoy the party guys, and can't wait to see you!

Stephx

Summit Success!!!

2009-09-28T15:25:00.002+01:00

Just a quick update to say I've heard from Rob Casserly at Camp 2, to say that everyone summitted, everyone is safe and sound, and Guy & Emma skied from the summit and are back at Base Camp. The rest of the team are walking down and are currently at Camp 2. They'll be back at BC tomorrow for celebratory fried spam fritters - and a wash! CONGRATULATIONS from everyone in Cham!!!!!!! :o) More details to follow ... Stephx

London Rat Race

2009-09-28T10:07:00.002+01:00

The Ratters getting ready....the smiles say it all!!!

Yesterday (Sunday) afternoon was spent in and around the Tower Bridge area of London at the Rat Race. This two day event which is aimed at generating huge amounts of fun in an urban area was the last in the UK series this year and the whole series went off with a bang. The race was made up of running, biking, kayaking, clue solving, abseiling and many more. I was with Jim who came up with the whole concept and Andy from Adventure Base for the afternoon and we spent a fun few hours watching some of the 1000 people who entered finish the course.

Folk abseiling down the side of the HAC building yesterday

The weather was especially kind with no rain and dare I say it hot temps in the city. Some of the race goers were looking some what hot and thirsty as they came across the line. For more info about the race check out www.ratraceadventure.com Look out for the Dream Guides team taking part next year!!

The view from the top of the HAC. Worried race goers below!!

HOT NEWS.....we had Guy and the team going for the summit early this morning in Nepal. As yet no news so fingers crossed they have all got up AND down safely!!! We'll keep you posted as soon as we find out more!!!! FINALLY a huge well done to Steph who kicked some butt in the Aig Rouge Race. This is a 51km adventure race in Chamonix.....I hear unofficially that she was 5th in her class...GO STEPH!!!! Be cool out there Kenton and Team DG!!!

Tonight's the Night

2009-09-27T17:06:00.004+01:00

Just had a message from Guy and the Manaslu team:

Everyone is now at Camp 4 at 7400m, having had a really good climb up over the last 3 days. They're all feeling on form -physically and mentally (although apparently looking pretty rough after 6 weeks shower free on the mountain!).

Tomorrow is summit day. They'll be leaving camp 4 at 2am their time tomorrow (ie 7pm UK time) and hope to summit around 9am (2am UK time) - ie tonight 27/09/09!

Wishing everyone loads of luck. Kenton says 'Storm It!' and be safe.

We'll let you know as soon as we hear any more news.

Steph

Manaslu - preparing to summit!

2009-09-23T12:31:00.003+01:00

The Dream Guides team are getting ready for their Manaslu summit attempt, starting tomorrow (Thursday). It's come around quickly and the plan is to take advantage of the weather window that they currently have - as it's due to change in the next 4-5 days.

Everyone's been taking the acclimatisation process at their own pace and doing really well.

Guy and Trotty are currently at Base camp, having been up to Camp 3 and climbed to nearly 7000m already.

Emma is a day behind and currently on her way down to Camp 1 from Camp 3, where she'll wait for Guy, so they can make their summit climb together and ski down as a pair.

Bonita is already on the mountain and working her way up from Camp 1, where she'll take the summit slower (along with Henry, Dave, Rob and Trotty).

GOOD LUCK from everyone in Chamonix!! We'll update the blog as soon as we hear any more news from the team.

Steph & KC xx

Manaslu - camp 2

2009-09-18T15:03:00.003+01:00

After a couple of nights spent sleeping at camp 1 (5900m) and climbing higher on the mountain, the Dream Guides Manaslu team have been back at base camp for a few days - resting, refueling and getting ready for their next push higher up the mountain. Since the dismally wet and snowy start to the expedition, the weather has completely changed and they've been enjoying blue sky days, incredible views, and perfect clear evenings. A pretty impressive place to be!

Guy was lying in his tent admiring the silhouette of Manaslu by starlight when we last spoke. Incredible to be able to speak so clearly by satellite phone when they are in such an inaccessible place. He said everyone is on good form, feeling fit and healthy, acclimatising well and enjoying being part of an exciting and special expedition - one of only a handful of teams on this impressive mountain. Emma has already been skiing - making a few turns between camp 1 and base camp a few days ago, while the rest have been acclimatising gradually and trying out their down suits and oxygen masks at base camp.

There are now 3 other ski teams hoping to be the first skiers from the summit - Our Dream Guides skiers, plus Chileans, Swiss, and now a French expedition who arrived at base camp a couple of days ago. Although only one group will be the 'first ever' skiers, just being there to climb and ski is an achievement in itself, and the atmosphere is very friendly! The Chilean team have been working with Dream Guides to help secure the route between camps 1 and 2.

Guy, Doug and Trotty headed up towards camp 2 yesterday morning, with Emma, Bonita and Rob following a day behind. They'll each spend a night at camp 1 (5900m), then move up the mountain to camp 2 (6400m), where they'll spend 2 nights before heading back down to base camp.

The route from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section of the climb. Dream Guides guide, Rob Casserly, the team's sherpas, and the Chileans - who are also hoping to ski the mountain - have been involved in fixing ropes through the most technical ice climbing sections of the route. They are hoping to spend a couple of days climbing above camp 2 and getting used to being high on the mountain without oxygen. This part of the climb will be hard on their bodies, but so far everyone is doing really well and coping with the altitude with nothing more than a headache.

Assuming all goes well over the next 3-4 days, this will be their last acclimatisation climb before resting up at base camp for a few days ... then, all being well with the weather forecast, conditions, and everyone's health - it's summit time.

We're expecting to hear from the guys early next week, when they're down from camp 2 and resting up at base camp before the real deal.

Watch this space!! ...

The smell of life

2009-09-16T19:38:00.004+01:00

The gang having fun Guiding has its ups and downs like life itself. Dream Guides has finally brought its summer season to an end, its been a great one with new friends and heaps of summits all over the alps. The main reason why its been so good is all those who came into the hills with us brought a sense of fun and adventure, combined with a wiliness to learn or try something new. Finishing the season yesterday with Huw was a mixture of joy and sadness. Joy because the hardwork is over but sadness due to the end of another summer and the motion of time, this brings with it the realisation that none of us are immortal. Kenton and Freddy enjoying life in its simple form Personally its been a roller coaster of a summer, with some amazing weddings, news of births but ultimately clouded by the death of some friends and family. People say that life goes on and in a way they are right, but life is never quite the same again there is something missing, something that will be missing forever. I have had more than my fair share of funerals in my life, even when I was young and while friends went to weddings I seem to get dressed up for other occasions. I'm not looking for sympathy, quite the opposite I think in strange way I've been lucky. I realised early on that there is only one life and it needs to be full, we don't get a second go. I think that's why I have packed so many expeditions into my 36 years, for me I have always found a calming that comes with the mountains, especially in the Himalayas. Things appear clear and un-cluttered, life becomes simply in the way its meant to be. Some have said its me running away from things in the western world but its not, in fact its the opposite. I was reading on Jake Mayers' blog last week about his return from K2. He mentioned walking back into the tree line after weeks of being on the glacier and the smell that hit him. Its the smell of life, it generates a feeling unlike any other its when I feel most alive. Maybe I have just failed on the mountain like Jake but it doesn't matter, I feel clean and reignited and this smell represents a new beginning each time, its the smell of life itself from that moment on, its like a second chance. Kenton and Sir Ranulph Fiennes breathing in life after Everest Look out for it next time you come down from the mountains, its there, it always is....the smell of life. Look out for the Dream Guides summer round up. Until then Kenton

Katie Robinson conquers Almscliff.

2009-09-13T21:39:00.004+01:00

We always talk about what we (and our clients) at Dream Guides do all the time on this blog. But its not just us that have fun in the mountains. The lovely thing about climbing and walking is that we all have an Everest, for some lucky few (like myself) it is Everest itself, for others it maybe a hill or a walk that we aspire to do in the alps or closer to home. These achievements are just as great if not more so than my own efforts on Everest. Young Katie Robinson (aged 6) who lives with her Mum, Dad and little sister in London recently visited her relatives in Yorkshire. While there she made her poor father Rich take her to the famous climbing cliff called Almscliff. Here she made quick work of climbing to the top, more than can be said of Dad by all accounts, where this great picture was taken. She wasn't put off by the on coming bad weather that can be seen in the photo and didn't even bother with gloves....quite a bold effort in chilly Yorkshire in September. Now the thing to remember about this was it took me to the old age of 18 to get to the top of Almscliff while here is Katie aged just 6....and in a cool kitty top. Going on this performance I really think that maybe we have a future world champion on our hands. GO KATIE!! Have fun in the hills out there. Kenton and the Dream Guides team.

Manaslu Base Camp

2009-09-12T17:13:00.008+01:00

The Manaslu team are now all at Base Camp (4800m)!

Guy, Lynette and Doug arrived at Base Camp last week, having opted for the helicopter to Samagown, and have spent most of their time so far acclimatising well, but wondering where the mountain is - while a massive storm has raged. Meanwhile the rest of the team, including Emma, Rob, Bonita & Henry have been walking in and arrived at BC yesterday, bringing sunshine with them - finally!

Today was spent relaxing at base camp under gorgeous blue skies, admiring the view of the summit, washing clothes, relaxing and ironing out technical hitches with Satellite phones, solar panels etc.

The expedition is officially underway. Tomorrow's Puja (local blessing and important part of every Nepali climbing expedition) will mark the start of their ascent up the mountain and the first cycle of acclimatisation climbs.

Everyone's in good health, feeling strong, all acclimatising well, and looking forward to getting on with getting up there. Guy, Lynette and Doug plan to spend 3 nights at Camp 1 (5600m) from tomorrow, while the others will take things a little slower and will be following them up with Rob over the next few days.

Look out for new blog updates from Tuesday!

italian hoilday

2009-09-06T20:00:00.004+01:00

The summit cross on the Jagihorn

Climbers normally think of Cogne in Italy as a great place to climb ice but Jazz and myself went there a couple of weeks ago and its lovely. I had never really stopped and looked around but Valnontey really is a beautiful place while the village of Cogne is full of great architecture, by all accounts we are moving there some time soon. From Cogne we travelled to Gressoney, another winter venue (normally great skiing) but once again its a wonderfully beautiful village that has great wee cafes were one can sit out on a terrace with an afternoon wine in the sun.

Jazz getting 'that feeling' from an early morning river crossing

In both places we camped which was very funny as it was Jazz's first time camping since being in the girl guides, but we did have as many mod cons in the car as possible, in fact the poor VW Golf was packed to the gunnels with equipment. Our final port of call after seeing the St Bernards at Grand St Bernard Pass was Saas Grund. Here I wanted to show Jazz the Via Ferrata on te Jagihorn, but more than that the Monster Trottis.

We're getting one soon??!!??

We quickly polished off the climb which as ever was simply great before changing climbing helmets for bike helmets and "having it" on the Trotties. For those who don't know these are scooters on steroids and are seriously good fun. Even a huge rain storm couldn't damping the fun that was had.

Left foot first....or was it right??.....oh sh**.....

All in all it was a great relaxing few days and shows that the Alps doesn't always have to be about climbing mountains. Kenton

Team heads to Manaslu

2009-08-31T15:02:00.007+01:00

Its taken a long time to come round but finally the Dream Guides Manaslu team set off to Nepal over the weekend. Speaking to Guy in Kathmandu he said the team where in great spirts and looking fwd to getting to Base Camp later this week despite the long flight over to Nepal. With Bonita and Emma on the team we are hoping to make the first British female ascent of the mountain (to the true summit). With them will be Lynette from Australia as well as Dream Guides leaders Guy and Rob. Its a strong team and we wish them all the best over the next few weeks.

Sunrise over Manaslu

There will be regular updates from the whole team once they get all the communication equipment up and running at Base Camp. Closer to home here are a few more shots from last Thursdays summit of Mont Blanc. Thanks to Cherry for these ones.

Sue and Cherry on top of Europe

Cool dawn shot looking out across to Switzerland from the top

Time to go home

Kenton and Team DG

mont blanc success!

2009-08-30T16:14:00.007+01:00

9 Clients and 5 guides, it was always going to be a tall order, but it worked. There were summits, friendships made and heaps of fun had.

James chilling in the evening sun, the Chardonnet behind.

The first few days were spent up around the Albert 1er and then over to the Trient Hut in Switzerland. The weather was less the perfect but we all had a great time up there, even Matt who managed to fall into a crevasse on Day 2. (He was safely pulled out!!) The night in the Trient hut was quite exciting. A major storm system passed overhead at around 3am, the electrics were rather impressive to say the least. We have to say a huge thank you to Annie and Graham from Adventure base who drove all the way round to Champex to pick the team up after we changed our plans on Day 3.

The girls on top of the Petite Fouche

Despite fresh snow the team decided to stick with the plan and we headed up to the Gouter Hut on Wed morning. The climb to the hut was great fun, some of the team were pushed a little but we all arrived in one piece with beaming smiles, the ascent was on! The afternoon was spent fine tuning our equipment before we were treated to stunning sunset that evening. Breakfast a 2.30 am is never going to be easy and the gouter hut doesn't make it any easier being at 3800m, but the whole team were heading up by 3.10am (good effort to all on that). The initial sections went really well despite the fresh snow on the route that had fallen overnight. Matt and Jim were the first to summit at 6.40am, an impressive time guys! About an hour the bulk of the team arrived, Sue and James were there with their guide Krister as were Sue and Rebbecca with Dave. Lori with Jonathan and Laura had to turn back a mere 500m short of the summit, as did John and myself. (John was in rehab from a knee operation only 6 weeks ago so even getting to the hut was impressive). The descent seemed to take forever as it always does but a cold beer was waiting as was the Adventure base hot tub for those tired limbs.

Sue and James on top!!

Our final day was spent rock climbing, and what a fun day, the sun was out and the gang knocked off loads of routes. A special mention to Matt and James who climbed pretty much all the routes there an impressive achievement after the effort of the week's mountaineering. I speak for the whole team when I say we had a great week. All the guides had fun which is normally a good sign. For those who didn't summit we look forward to seeing them next year and for those who did, well plenty more wonderful mountains in the alps to go at Guys. From me (Kenton) a huge thanks to all the guides and clients this week, it really was a fantastic 6 days. Kenton and Team Dream Guides. The Summit Video!!

kingsmill goes to the mountains

2009-08-10T20:11:00.003+01:00

Last week was spent running round the alps with two bakers. Well Mark and Steve are a little more than just bakers, Mark is the CEO of Kingsmill Bakers (they make 7.5 million loaves a week) while Steve is the Director of one of the UK biggest flour suppliers. Mark on the Crux of the Cosmiques

We all had a fantastic week, our two bakers were totally mad for it from the outset. Mark had been to the Alps before and knew what it was all about while poor Steve was in at the deep end. Day 1 was spent on the Cosmiques Arete, the boys letting their bodies get used to the altitude as well as remembering how to walk in crampons. All went well apart from Steve getting his rucksack stuck on the final section and having to pull it up behind him.

Steve and Kenton at the bottom of the Midi Arete

Day 2 and 3 saw us all decamp to Italy and to the fine Torino Hut. The first day there we climbed the Aig Du Enteves in marvelous weather, although we all got sunburnt....naughty us. The next day Mark was in charge and he did a great job leading us up and down the Aig Du Marbree before we dropped back to the valley and some fine Italian Coffee.

How big is Mark's grin???

Our final day together was the lads' first day ice climbing, the mission was to climb the Chere Couloir. It was a tall order but both boys did an unbelievable job. Steve blew me away with his determination and far outstripped all of our expectations. Meanwhile there was no stopping Mark. The route wasn't in great condition but this wasn't going to stop him. I don't think I've ever seen a client beam so much at the top of a route. I think I speak for all of us but especially myself, it was great week, where the company was fantastic, the weather stunning and the fun levels simply through the roof. Mark and Steve, a huge thank you from me for making the week so great. Kenton and the DG team

birthday climbing

2009-07-31T20:44:00.008+01:00

In order to celebrate my birthday Jon Griffith and I decided to climb the Cordier Pillar on the Grand Charmoz, in the Chamonix Aigulles. In oredr to enjoy the day and not be rushed we decided to bivy the evening before under the route and get an early start. The bivy was amazing and we soaked up the evening sunshine before Jon cooked up a great Fondue. Amazing evening bivy The day started early but with a surprise, Jon pulled out a wee cake and a candle, only on your Birthday can you have cake for brekkie! I had climbed the route once before some 15years before and had forgotten just how good the climbing was on the route. Jon and I happily swung leads soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the climbing. The weather was great, even the morning temps weren't too bad and cold fingers were avoided.

Kenton enjoying one of the lower pitches

The day shot by at a pace and before long Jon made the sensible decision to turn around shy of the summit. This turned out to be a shrewd idea as we had a bit of a rope jamming nightmare (more than one if the truth be known) on the way down which would have meant that we would have missed the cable car down.

Pitch after pitch of amazing granite......what a birthday gift!!

Today was spent with Greg from San Fransisco who was visiting Europe for the first time with his wife Ingrid. We managed to slip in a wonderful ascent of the Chere Couloir on Mont Blanc Du Tacul. Greg was totally made up with the climb and even lead the last pitch to the top. It was a great effort from the man who hasn't climbed ice in over 2 years. So a busy few days in all, but I'd just like to say thanks to Jon not only for my cake but also the use of his photos, check out more at his site www.alpineexposures.com

Kenton (looking old) and the youthful Jon Griffith

Have a great weekend whatever your doing. Kenton and team Dream Guides.

busy summer

2009-07-29T09:32:00.005+01:00

Its been a while since either Guy or myself have blogged, the reason is quite easy, we've just been so busy. The time has shot past and now we are half way through the summer already. So where to begin, while our summer kicked off with Guy and Steph getting married. It was a truly amazing day to be part off. The bride looked absolutely stunning and, if the truth be known, Guy didn't scrub up too badly either. It was great to see so many of our friends gathered in one spot and we all wish the new couple all the best. The beautiful couple. The summer has been quite good weather wise but there has been some weeks of chasing weather so I'd like to thanks all our clients so far who have all been great to be with. Summits have included Mont Blanc, Grand Paradiso, Aig Du Chardonnet, Cadar Idris, Dent Du Geant, Aig Tour, Snowdon to name but a few. We'd just like to mention young Asher who 2 weeks ago became the youngest Brit to climb Mont Blanc with Dream Guides at only 10. I think we probably have a budding Everest Climber there! Alpine Dawn looking towards the Dru. A couple of Welsh peaks have slipped in you may notice, this was because I (Kenton) spent 2 weeks working in Wales on a team building exercise which was brill, despite the fact I was working with 17 Aussies. Looking ahead the summer is still busy (right into mid Sept) with many of our old friends coming back out to enjoy the Alpine climbing, after that things calm down a little but we still have our rock weekends to look fwd to down in the S of France. Alpine fun. The summer so far has been great new friends have been made and fresh links made to old, but the underlying theme this year so far has been fun. Thanks Kenton and the DG team

Top of the World with Sir Ran

2009-05-23T04:51:00.004+01:00

Hi Guys

The team is back at basecamp after a Long descent from camp 4 (7950) . We finally arrived at 8.30pm in the dark.

Things are really busy here today, we are due to leave BC in about an hour, and I've yet to pack.

All the team are fine including Ran Fiennes, we kept that one quite didn't we!!!

Just like to say a huge thanks for all the support and words that some of you left on the site it all help get the team up to the top of the world.

Summit day was cold and windy but Ran got to the top first at 4.30 and I followed about an hour later, the views were amazing!!

I'll update photos when i get to KAthmandu.

Thanks for everything

KC and the team

everest summit success

2009-05-22T15:59:00.000+01:00

The news from Nepal is good! Kenton and the Dream Guides team
summitted in the middle of the night 20th/21st May. Well done
everyone! More information will be dispatched when we hear again
from Kenton, who is currently on his way down the mountain.

This is Kenton's 7th summit success in 6 years - awesome!

Meanwhile, you can catch Everest ER on the bbc on 25th May (and the
next 4 weeks) featuring Rob Casserley and Kenton and there footage
from Everest on a previous trip.

Cheers
Guy

Green light for Summit

2009-05-16T09:38:00.001+01:00

After what feels like an age sitting at base Camp waiting we have a green light. Tomorrow Morning the whole team will set off for BC on what will become the summit push.

We have been carefully looking at all the weather forecasts and it would appear that we have a great summit window, low winds and almost no forecast snowfall.

Some teams at BC have already left looking for an earlier summit, in fact if all goes well the first teams should be on top in the early hours tomorrow (17^th).

By leaving tomorrow to camp 2 we hope to be on the summit on the morning of the 21^st and all back in BC no later than the 23^rd and from there a return to Kathmandu. This all feels along way off right now, we are all just focused on one day at a time and we hope this will lead to a successful summit.

The whole team of Mike, Anita, Ran, Yuri, Laura and of course myself would like to thank all who have posted kind words on the Dream Guides Site.

I will try to up date via the Dream Guides office while we are on the hill but if I don’t please don’t worry as no news is good news. In the mean time keep fingers and toes crossed for the morning of the 21^st.

A HUGE thanks to all who have supported the Dream Guides Everest 08 expedition. This includes

Mountain Hardwear

Ice Breaker

Land Rover

Lyon Equipment

Petzl

La Sportiva

Julbo

Top Out Oxygen

Science in Sport

Suuntor

BE COOL

Kenton

Snow Snow Snow at Everest Basecamp

2009-05-12T07:30:00.003+01:00

View from Kentons tent this morning!!

The amazing view of Everest from Pumori camp 1 the south col and North col are clearly visable!!

Well it happens every year out here, we always get on period when it snows alot and this is it. Its been snowing for 2 days now and there is nothing we can do. Above you can see a picture taken from Pumori camp 1 in the morning, that afternoon the snow came and its not stopped until about an hour ago. The top pic is taken from my tent this am and I think you can see the difference.

Its not all back though we have 48hrs now of better weather, before the next snow but the long range forecast is for the 19th onwards to be much better so fingers crossed.

So what happens at BC in bad weather, well lots of reading, eating, reading, drinking tea, playing games, sleeping, eating, reading....I think you get the idea. It can be quite good fun to be honest.

The team is all doing well here but we are looking forward to a clear spell of weather so we can get back on the hill.

Please keep sending your comments as the team all like reading them.

OH there goes the lunch gong, time to go

Be cool out there

KC and the DG team on Everest

Weather waiting for the top

2009-05-09T13:13:00.003+01:00

The team is all in base camp and we are ready to go here but like all things in mountaineering we are waiting for the weather. Spirts are high here despite the recent sad news about a sherpa being killed in the icefall, the whole of basecamp has got together to try and support the family.

Live at BC ticks over and when we are not looking at weather reports we spend out time playing cards and visting other camps. Yesterday I managed to get out with a few old friends and went bouldering, despite the cold wind we had a fun afternoon, check the photos above.

I'll keep you informed from BC on what our plans are but right now it looks like we may be here a while, but thats mountaineering.

Enjoy out there

KC and the Team

Everest Update. Mountain Blitz and sad news.

2009-05-07T10:12:00.002+01:00

Mike Kobold on route to camp 3.

After a rest period at Base Camp The dream guides team felt strong, so we decided on a very quick blast up the mountain.

We left BC at 5.30 am and moved straight through to camp 2 in a good time. As we were all looking and feeling strong the next day we decided to climb all the way to camp 3, tag, (ie not sleep there) and then come all the way back to BC in the same day. A HUGE task but one that we all managed. All members were back in BC by 6pm that night.

Now we are all in BC and I had my first shower for 10days......it was bliss I tell you.

The team is now ready for a summit push and we are really only waiting for a weather window.

On other notes I must thanks a few people for their posts on the blog wishing us luck and commenting on the bolting news. I must also say thanks to Pete for your very constructive comments about the bolting!!.

On a sad note I must say that I got news about an old friend of mine John Evans who passed away after a climbing accident in Wales. John was very kind to me when I used to spend alot of time in Alaska. I Especially remember the time when Ian Parnell and I strung things out a little (we thought we were going to die!!) repeating Denail Diamond, the hot choc was very welcome at the 14 camp John Thank you for ever. Our thoughts at Dream Guides are with Johns family.

Please keep sending the comments as they all mean alot to the team here.

I'll keep you all posted on events

Everest Camp 3 and bolts

2009-05-03T10:00:00.003+01:00

Well I'm sitting at base camp on a turn around from camp 2 and camp 3 cycles.

the whole camp 2 experinece was great for those in the team that haven't been there before and we even made our way almost to camp 3 on one of the days, which was a great performance.

Tomorrow the Dream Guides team will be back on the hill on our way to camp 2 and then pushing through to 3 the next day.

Since I was last on the hill I've been hoping for a shower and to do some washing but its been overcast and snowy, making the whole washing thing kinda unpleasent, so I'm sitting here being rather smelly....thank GOD for ice breaker is all I can say!!

The whole team is in good health and looking fwd to the coming challenge of the next 4 or 5 days.

You may have read things in the news about a huge ice fall collapse, this did happen but no one was hurt which was very lucky, also there will be some intresting fall out from the fact that bolts have been placed in the yellow band. This was done after much discussion by all team at basecamp and all of us at Dream Guides supports this action....read more from me on ukclimbing.com about this.

Thats it for now.

Be cool

Kenton

camp 2

2009-05-02T16:35:00.000+01:00

Kenton has been busy acclimatising for his latest Everest jaunt -
this last week will have seen him and his crew pushing up to camp 2
to check out the western comb and higher mountain. The team is in
good spirits and keeping healthy. A great start to this years trip.
The weather has been clear and cold - darn chilly in fact!

We expect to hear from Kenton again very soon with another update and
maybe some juicy gossip?

Back here at Dream Guides Basecamp things have been pretty busy with
a flurry of end of season ski fixes for regular clients and new
alike! The snow conditions continue to be very good for this late in
the season and we are looking forward to our Ski Mont Blanc week
starting on Monday!

Stay tuned for more news from Everest and a ski round up soon...

Cheers
Guy

Kathmandu

2009-04-18T08:30:00.002+01:00

Well its buisness as normal here in Nepal. My flight got me in late yesterday afternoon and I was rushed to the Ministry of Tourism before I even got to my hotel. They were staying open late to get the Dream Guides Everest permit issused before the weekend. I have never been in and out of the Ministry quite so quickly....amazing how paper can be pushed when people want it too!! I also got to meet up with Rob Casserly who is just back from an Everest Basecamp trek. All the folk with him had an amazing time and its something that Dream Guides will be looking to run on a permentant basis from now on, we will keep you posted on that. More exciting than all of this though is the news that Rob is set to marry his girlfriend...the beautifull Marie-Cristal, he proposed on the trek and she said YES!!! From all of us at Dream Guides we wish them both the very best. I fly to Lukla and start my trek to BaseCamp tomorrow but I'll try and update along the way with a few pictures to give you a flvour of the Khumbu valley. Take care out there. Kenton

Everest Bound with Dream Guides!

2009-04-12T19:28:00.002+01:00

Well when things happen they happen fast at Dream Guides. We've been having fun this winter Skiing and Ice Climbing and spring had crept up on us, rock boots were dusted down and shirts were being removed at the crag, its been great seeing the spring in, something we don't always do due to the Himalayan expeditions we do. Then BLAM a curve ball was thrown into the mix, we've been asked to work in a role best described as a consultant on an Everest expedition, its all pretty last minute and we have had to drop everything to make it happen. Guy has had to take on some extra work in France due to the fact that I (Kenton) am heading out to Nepal this Thursday leaving him to Guide the whole work load, as well as finalize moving house and planning his own wedding, well the last 2 are down to Steph really!! (Sorry for dropping it all on you Fella). But he is coping well as ever! It going to be a strange expedition this year as its all so lat minute but we are all looking forward to the challenge that its presenting us here at Dream Guides and we are hoping for success in late May. We can't tell you too much about the clients just yet (its all a bit hush hush!) but we will fill you in as and when we can. In the mean time its business as normal in the Alps and its still not too late to book that ski touring trip and Mont Blanc is in great condition to ski right now so check out those trips on the web site. Be cool out there and keep an eye out for the Everest updates!! KC

TOUR ROND NORTH FACE.

2009-03-21T10:44:00.005Z

Sunset from the Torino hut. The Summit of the Tour Rond is described in the Alpine Club Guidebook as follows, "As a viewpoint it is probably one of the finest in the range, standing opposite the full sweep of the Peuterey Ridge and the magnificent Brenva Face". Well with a description like that it really has to be a must for anyone....let alone a Journalist from the Finical Times. I've worked with Tarquin Cooper a couple of times in the past and jumped at the chance of spending a couple of days in the hills with him. We wanted a summit that was going to be climbable in a quick weekend hit from the UK and the Tour Rond seemed the prefect fit with a testing North Face, low(ish) altitude, easy approach and quick descent....what could ever go wrong!! The lovely Jazz drove us round to Le Palud lift in Italy, we had a coffee in the sun watching some film being shot in the car park, before we caught the lift up. We had a tricky hut approach of approx 25m from the lift to the hut....it was a killer. Tarquin approaching the narrows. The old Torino hut is lovely with a nice warm wooden main room and comfy small dom rooms. Tarquin and myself took some great pictures of a stunning sunset on the terrace before we had a lovely meal, tucking ourselves up in bed before 10pm! Alpine breakfast starts are never that good, but 6am is pretty mellow and by 6.50 we had climbed the stairs to the main Hut and had strapped skis on. The ski to the face was easy and before long we were crossing the Bergschrund. The upper slopes of the North Face. The Classic North Face is graded II D 350m and provides a good intro to the classic N Face routes of the alps. The conditions were fantastic and we were quickly up at the narrows where I put the first belay in. Here there were a couple of moves on mixed ground that were great fun before we popped onto the upper slopes. We stuck to the right side of the face and I found good runner in the rocks so we simply moved together to the summit blocks. Here a wee traverse to the left put us on the std route a a quick romp to the summit. The views didn't let us down...it was simply stunning!!! Summit Success WOOHOO The descent is pretty straight forward and we walked back to our skis in less than 2hrs from the summit. Not much was left other than an enjoyable ski down the Vallee Blanch to that much deserved beer in town!! All in all a fantastically enjoyable day in the hills. Look out for a piece in the FT How to spend it magazine sometime in the summer for a full write up by Tarquin.View into Italy from the top...stunning!

THE EIGER NORTH FACE FOR BBC

2009-03-09T12:47:00.005Z

Neil Brodie at the Stollenloch window on the Eiger, the scene of much history. The team dig out the snow and pop onto the North Face It was planned for a while but things in the mountains are never that easy. As Neil and I drove to the Eiger on Thursday we weren't too hopeful about climbing the N Face for the BBC. The crew all met in the eve and we travelled on the train to Kleine Schidegg and a hotel that simply oozed history....its where Clint Eastwood stayed while filming the Eiger Sanction. All day Friday its snowed and we didn't even see the face, not great for climbing. View up to the difficult crack Gwen and Steve from Indus, spot the one who is slightly less comfortable with the situation. The Crew were Gwen and Steve from Indus films with Kieth Partridge and Brain Hall working cameras and Safety. We were also joined by Hans Rudi, a super cool local guide and Eiger Expert who helped organise the whole thing. Friday was spent doing some interviews and getting depressed about the weather but Saturday dawned bright and Steve got to see the N Face for the first time and all our spirts rose. The forecast wasn't great for later in the week so we decided to get as much in the can as possible. After a morning of interviews with the face behind Neil and I went off skiing (which was awesome, thigh deep fresh snow!!) and the crew went to do some general views. Sunday was going to be the best day weather wise so the plan was to get onto the face via the Stollenloch window. For those of you who don't know the Eiger its an amazing mountain that has a railway running through it!!! Due to the railway its possible to exit onto the N Face through a small door. Its the scene of many tales and alot of history, I speak for the whole crew to say that we were very excited about the day. We spent most of the day on the face filming before the weather came back in that Evening with yet more snow making climbing the mountain impossible. For me it was a very emotional return to the scene where I made the first British guided ascent with Sir Ran Fiennes in 2007. It was a strange day, I had to talk about the history of this spot on the face to the camera, its the scene of the infamous fateful rescue attempt of Toni Kurz in 1936. I was getting a very powerful dark feeling from the door way and tunnel. I could close my eyes and hear the clunk of equipment as rescuers returned from trying to save Toni. There was total silence as the entered the tunnel each lost in their own thoughts knowing that by leaving him hanging that night on the face they were condemning the young man to death. I touched the wooden door and I could almost feel the tears of these men as they boarded the train to return to their warm homes knowing what they had done. When we finished I closed the big metal bars locking the door to the outside just like the rescuers would have done back in 1936, I heard a faint scream from outside, I know that it was the wind but somehow I do wonder, and then it was gone......It was a very emotional time for all of us. For those who haven't heard the story or Toni Kurz check out the film the Beckoning Silence (from 2007) or The North Face (which is showing at the present in cinemas) or read the White Spider by Heinrick Harrer. Its a horrendously sad story Looking back at the Film Crew at the window. Although we didn't climb the face it was a successful few days and the plan is to return when the weather and conditions are better, to make what will be my 3rd ascent of the face and the famous 1938 route. I'll keep you posted. Be safe out there Kenton

THAT WAS THE WEEK THAT WAS!!

2009-03-02T11:09:00.004Z

Patri in Cogne Italy. Its been a long week that has held a number of simply amazing days on the hill. It all began on Monday with Seb and Rob with some ice climbing at Chaterlard, followed by one of the best days so far this season. We all went to Cogne in search of that special Italian Chocolate, instead we found one of those days. Its hard to describe a day that is just so magical, its not just one aspect but many that merge together to create some thing that approaches heaven. Seb and Rob were great company, the weather was simply stunning and the climb in the best condition I have ever seen it. The beer at the end was quite Delicious and was a fitting topping to a splendid day. Brad and myself on the Aig Crochues Wed saw Seb and Rob have a day off to rest those tired forearms so it was back on skis with Brad and Oli Sherman for myself. Again it was another supered day. We skinned up to the Col de Crochues and then shouldered the skis on our backs before traversing the Aig Crochues. This proved a great mountaineering trip with a great summit (and an amazing lunch thanks to Brad, no wonder his sac was so heavy!!). We then had a short ski on the S side of the Col Du Dard before skinning up to the Col de Belvedere. We rapped the top section, which gave us access to some great untracked snow before we tree bashed our way down the Berard valley and then to Le Buet. Brad then very kindly offered to buy Oli and myself dinner here in Mont Saxonnex and we all had a great evening so a huge thanks to Brad. Oli and Brad on the summit. Thursday saw Seb and Rob tackle the steepest ice they have yet done and they put in a huge effort. I think it would be fair to say that they were both happy when they reached the top, it was a fine day out and a fitting end to a great few days out with the boys. Friday was back to Cogne with Hannah for her first taste of outdoor ice. She performed like a pro on Cascade Lillize but I'm not too sure if it was the climbing or the hot Chocolate in the sun afterwards which was the day's highlight for the girl....well done Hannah awesome effort!! Sat saw Darren and Mike don crampons for the first time and instead of starting on something easy we blasted the Cosmiques Arete on the Aig Du Midi. Again it was great weather and the route was in very good condition, the boys really took to it all as if they were seasoned climbers. They grunted and groaned a wee bit but I for one was very impressed by what I was witnessing. They even impressed a couple of girls at the top with their chiseled mountaineering looks. Darren and Mike with a wee drop under their feet! Darren with the Everest Summit pose....nice one!! Finally it was back to Cogne on Sunday with our good friends Gavin and Ali, after such a cool time on Tues there I decided to return to the climb Patri. It was still in stella nick and it gave another fine day of ice climbing with both Gav and Ali climbing in fine style despite the huge day on the day before with Guy on the skis. They both borrowed my Nomic ice axes for the last pitch and it looked like they fell in love with them!! The walk out I think was the crux for all of us with the path seemingly never ending, but as it always does the end came...finally. And thus was the week that was, hard work at times but some wonderful memories with old and new Friends in the hills. Thank you one and all who made the week so special and I look forward to our next adventure together.

Ice Climbing Scottish Style

2009-02-24T19:01:00.002Z

I arrived at the Adventure base Chalet to meet Andy Watts early Saturday morning. Due to a late finish on Fri I hadn’t had time to hook up with Andy so I was going in blind for the day, something that I hate doing. There was nothing at all to worry about, Andy was one of the most enthusiastic switched on clients I have ever had. He had never really been ice climbing before and took to it as if he was some French climbing god, despite his bendy boots and strap on crampons. The first day we destroyed the cremere, climbing pretty much every shred of ice there, with Andy leading me up the final 3 pitch route in fine style.....awesome effort. Day 2 and it was a bad forecast so we went to Chaterlard in Switzerland to strap Andy onto a grade 6 and he made short work out of it, he even reckoned he was pumped although I’m pretty sure he was telling fibs, it was the huge grin that gave it all away. I reckon the bad weather made him feel right at home (he is Scottish after all). It had been honking snow all day and the drive back proved to be the crux for both of us, with the trusty car just making back over the col to France, but that wasn’t as bad as the poor Guy with the Motor Bike and sidecar that we saw...totally bonkers!! Two days with Andy really wasn’t enough and I for one look forward to his return when we can really rip up some ice......with some better boots!!! Thanks for a great time Andy. I’m now part way through a 3 day course with our trusty mate Seb Chivers and Rob. Today saw a great day out in Cogne Italy with the team tearing apart Patri Left Hand in awesome weather, blue skies and sunshine WOOHOO. A fine effort from the two boys on the route, and we treated ourselves to a cheeky beer and medals before the drive home.

BUSINESS TIME FOR THE ICE!

2009-02-20T20:36:00.002Z

Well its always the same. After a few days skiing the soul needs to be purged and there is no better way then to team up with Nick Bullock and go climb some ice. Nick has wanted to climb Llynx (IV, 6, M4+ 200m) all season, so as soon as I said I was free today there was only one climb to do, you can’t let Nick down either. We were both in the car by 7.30 and hurtling off towards Morzine and a date with a nasty looking dribble of ice. The walk in wasn’t too bad considering it was knee deep snow, luckily there was a trail in so we were at the base in about 40mins. The route didn’t look too bad, while the one next door (La Dame Du Lac) looked totally amazing (see pics). The only problem was the icicle on pitch two of our route wasn’t touching down, still I had Bullock with me so nothing is impossible. I had the first pitch which was a combo of bullet hard ice and nasty crust that had to be cleared but I soon found myself belayed under the most wacky looking ice pitch I’ve ever climbed. Nick dry tooled his way up 40 feet with some pants in situ peg (one day we will take wires on these routes) before launching out right on some groaning blobs of ice. The next 30 feet was really steep yet awesome ice. At one stage I climbed with my feet on an icicle and my axes on the main fall....simply great climbing. There was a final steep pillar before the ground eased and Nick was belayed grinning from ear to ear. My next pitch was a short wall followed by an easy section, this lead to a horrid wee wall. Crusty, layered, steep ice (not nice at all) lead me up to a small cave and a welcomed belay. Nick dispatched the next 40m pretty fast despite the steep concrete like ice that he climbed on the way. This left the glory pitch to the top to me woohoo!... a mellow groove lead at last some softer ice and finally the top. Both Nick and I had battered hands at the top due to some nasty mushrooms on this final pitch (mine are swelling up and going purple as I type this) but even this didn’t take the joy of the llynx away. The raps down went smoothly and we were soon back at the car in the sunshine for the first time all day....mission accomplished. Pics from the top 1) The route Llynx 2) Le Dame Du Lac 3) First pitch 4) Nick starting pitch 2 5) Nick battling with icicles.

W.W.S Tour 09 Chamonix

2009-02-16T21:20:00.003Z

Every year a movement is mobilised and a small group of elite athletes come to the snowy reaches of the Alps. They seek out the extreme and the challenging, the sort of thing that sends mere mortals into cold chills. The name of this band of wannabe heroes.....the W.W.S. They came from far and wide, well London. The recon group consisted of Big D, solo, checking the lay of the land before Wally and Midshipman landed in Chamonix late Weds evening. They threw down an arrival note in Le Terrace that night, but perhaps their skills had been dulled over the years as there was some soreness the following morning. But, up early they were to check the hills, and action was found at the Grands Montets. Early conditions weren’t so good, a nasty wind, cloud and cold temps kept our trio at bay until they were spotted by Mr Glen Plake and a friendly guide who saw their fear and told them to “be brave my friends”. After that by all accounts it was a massacre, the powder never stood a chance, run after run they edged and whooped untill exhausted they stopped, it was after all very nearly lunch and there were W.W.S to be drunk. The afternoon was a blur of powdery fun, some of the best ever by all accounts. When spoken to that night they were full of glee, one of the first into battle that day and certainly the last to return, or so they say. Day 2 of the conflict and reinforcements were needed, The Midshipman’s sister was called in. She charmed her way through the crowds waiting for the lift, walking straight to the front, flashing a smile, saying the boys were in need. With the team now four, nothing was safe and the W.W.S pounded and fought with the added advantage of having a girl in tow so that the Vin Chaud could be drunk with out any shame. Day 3 dawned with cloud and haze but it was off into battle once again, only this time to Italy where the W.W.S is drunk with a splash of lemon. The Toula was the battle field and so it began, poor at first with Wally on foot (bloody boarders) untill the ladders, where Duckers showed fear and I dropped a ski. The wind was bitter, the snow was blown and the team thought that perhaps a bad choice was made. But, very shortly, the snow turned light and not so crusty, in fact it was white and quite a delight! So, the team manned up (and girled up) and pitch after pitch was skiied with grins upon faces. But, once again lunch did call (okay it was 2.30 this time) and the boys did need their W.W.S. It was more a feast than lunch, with true Italian flair. To finish it off the grappa was drunk but all was okay as we missed the lift back to the top. The ski back down was a terrible thing with legs going one way and the body astray. Then off to The Pub for the day’s big match, England were stuffed by those red dragon men, but the boys didn’t care as the day had been won much earlier on the Italian white slopes. Day 4 and time to complete the mission. Again just the three, and the location Le Tour. They bashed around the slopes pulling tail grabs to impress the dames (well Big D was...so I’m told) but all that was found was a final wee dram. And finally the mission came to a close, a roaring success, the mountains tamed, owned and slayed! So you may ask, who are these team of heroic adventurers that you read about? Alex and Simon the skiers of old, with their trusty snowboarding compadre with baggy ski pants. Wally’s his name and he is very cool (well lets face it anyone might be compared to the two), but what sets them apart is the simplest thing....team W.W.S, the gayest task force in the Cham village. We look forward to their return, swift and savage, displaying both strength and honour and brandishing thier own mixers. Boys, its business time! Picture from the top 1) Boys taking in some WWS 2) Simon ripping the Toula 3)Big D doing what he does best 4)Big D Vs Le Toula....guess who won (see picture 3) 5) The boys!!

More Snow & Skiing 2

2009-02-10T17:01:00.001Z

Later in the week saw me team up with the lovely Steph and my brothers Oli and Dom 'witness the fitness' Willett for a return to the Belvedere couloir in the Aiguilles Rouges. This is a north facing couloir descending from the col du Belvedere after a fairly mellow 2 hour skin. As there is a fixed rappel anchor at the top, lots of people abseil/sideslip the first 60m creating a deep rut. So the top 45-50 degree section is often virtually unskiable, but not quite today - junky snow where it was easy to catch a tip led to much nicer smooth powder below and any stress at the top of the couloir was soon forgotten and put down to 'good training'. The unnerving thing about this couloir are the rocks right in the fall line at the bottom of the steep bit - you don't want to fall!Pats on the back all round. There would have been some 'high 5's' but we don't do that kind of emotion... (Belvedere couloir 45 degrees, passages of 50, for 150m 4.2 E2) I hooked up with Simon Christy on Friday. Simon is an ace ski instructor living in the three valleys and we have had a number of great ski adventures over the years. Today would be a great mini adventure and a challenging technical ski as it would turn out! In mediocre weather we set off for the Breche Martin-Encrenaz, again in the Aiguilles Rouges (the lower altitude skiing has been awesome this season) with its north powdery couloir being the objective. Normally we would climb up the line we would ski so that there are no little surprises on the way down and we can assess the snow. But today we had some time pressure and opted for a traverse of the Breche, climbing up the south couloir and skiing down the north. According to the guide book an abseil is 'sometimes necessary' on the north side, so we figured if it looked sketchy we would just ski down the way we had come up - the south couloir. Anyway, the 300m bootpack up the South Couloir was purgatory - knee to thigh deep with a thick but just breakable crust - and took an age. But we got to the breche in the end and looked down our intended line of descent. Hmmm. It was steep and the snow looked great, but there was definitely going to be a significant vertical abseil required down a rock wall. We weren't keen to ski the horrible snow in the south couloir, particularly as the north snow looked sooo good, but discretion is the better part of valour and so the south it was. It turned out to be wuite a challenging ski! The couloir was quite U shaped and due to a load of old avalanche debris in the middle we had to ski the steeper sides on difficult snow - icy changing to breakable crust mid turn. All good practice! (Breche Martin-Encrenaz South Couloir 45 degrees for 150m, passage of 50 degrees. 4.2 E2) Finally, on Sunday, Oli, Steph, Emma and I headed up the Italian Helbronner to the Toule glacier. We found some great fun deep snow conditions but it was definitely challenging with a thick breakable windslab on top of deeeep powder. Face shots all round but good technique and strong legs required! Being careful on any convexities we made our first lap and had a cheap and tasty cappucino. Steph and Emma dutifully headed back to the office to keep Dream Guides in business, while I shirked any responsibility and headed up twice more with Oli. After all he had come up from Monaco and I couldn't let him down could I? We found safer conditions in 2 great little couloirs accessible right from the top lift station at 3450m. First off was the Torino or 'Toilet' couloir - a funnel shaped thing with a 45 degree entrance and less steep but narrow exit giving 300m of pure fun and next was the narrow and imposing Passarella Couloir. This is a solid 45 degrees and a striking line to ski. Today it was trickier than usual with a narrow section requiring some insecure side stepping over some rocks about two thirds of the way down. Great fun, great snow and tired legs - a good feeling! So that's my round up - thanks for reading - I will try and keep them shorter next time! And add some photos too (a technical glitch my end...) Ciao Guy

More Snow & Skiing 1

2009-02-10T16:57:00.001Z

Well, it's been a while since our last blogpost, a sure sign that Kenton and I have been busy. Kenton on a long photo shoot, a great weekend with the First Ascent crew in Gressoney and last weekend with Charles and Neil for one of our 'Ice Weekends' For me (Guy) its been skiing and more skiing... several days out with Mark Zittelli and also Peter Kennen in the aiguille rouges finding some great snow and great skiing in the Berard valley and Glacier Mort in not always perfect weather! And we can't forget that perfect Sunday with Alistair Fabb and the Geneva crew - blue sky, 2 foot of fresh powder and first tracks down all the lines at le Tour - a great day! So what else? Well, in chronological order... About 10 days ago with an unexpected day off I lucked out with a solo trip to the north couloir of Point Inferior du Tricot at the bottom of the Bionnassay glacier - not the most famous peak in the alps but an epic ski - a hidden gem. I had heard through the grapevine that it had been skied the day before and so was hoping the skin and bootpack tracks would still be there to save me alot of effort breaking trail for the 1500m vert. Well, you can't have everything! 5 hours of breaking trail found me exhausted at the top of the couloir wondering if I had the legs to ski it. However the snow was perfect (a payoff for wading through above knee powder for 600m vert) and my tired legs soon remembered what to do. A short steep section of 50 degrees at the top, some powder and a short step over some rocks at a narrowing saw me at the top of the bulk of the descent - a long 45 degree pitch in great snow. It's amazing how much difference good snow makes - if the snow had been icy and juddery this exposed 45 degree section would have seen a few tense moments on my tired legs. As it was it was bliss, steep turns in compact powder, a nice rythym and that great sensation of the sluff coming down with you and around you. A brief steepening to 50 again as I traversed above a cliff to the exit chute and it was in the bag. It might even be a British first? (Pt. Inf. du Tricot North Couloir. 5.1 E2 45 degrees with 2 sections of 50. 600m) see pt2 for the rest!

The Alps has it all, 3 weeks of fun and games.

2009-02-10T16:13:00.007Z

Time seems to fly by sometimes, well that’s my excuse for not posting in 2 or 3 weeks and I’m sticking to it. As ever it’s been a pretty busy time for us here at Dream Guides, mixing work and play, so much so that its kind of hard to think what we have been up to. It started (I think) with the PMSS group with our friend Seb Chivers and his work pals. I spent 3 days climbing Ice Falls with Seb and Nigel in and around Cham, meanwhile Guy was skiing the Valley Blanche with some of the others from the group. I also did a talk for them on Sunday night about my experiences of climbing with Sir Ran Fiennes. All of the group (40 in total) had a great time and we hope to see them back out here soon. Straight after that I had a couple of days of ice climbing for myself before starting a hectic 12day period of work. It started with some photos with Jon Griffith before working safety with Ben Prichard doing some filming for Berghaus at Le Tour. Then it was in the car and across to Gressoney in Italy for 3 days with 1st Ascent (the UK importers for Black Diamond). This proved to be a great few days, the first being spent climbing ice before we having 2 wonderful days on the skis. If you have never been there I can highly recommend Gressoney as a venue for some really great off piste action….miles and miles of it with no crowds…it was bliss. The whole valley really has a lovely feel to it all, certainly a must vist venue. After Gressoney it was back to Cham for some more work with a couple of day trips to Italy thrown in to mix it all up. The snow was generally good with cool blue skis above us. The days seemed to be blending into one long ski fest!!. But like everything it comes to an end, and before long I was tying back onto a rope this time with Nick Bullock. We had a great day out climbing Les Brumes d’Avalon, which is situated near Morzine, check the video out!! It has a grade of III, 5, M5+, 6a, any suggestions to what that means are most welcomed! The following day saw me climbing with Jon Bracey. We went Dry Tooling at Montriond (again nr Morzine), again a great day out with a long time friend. Finally the last few days were spent with Charles and Neil working on the ice again. From never having ice climbed before they both quickly took to the whole thing, both were swinging about on a grade 5 by the end of the few days so well done to both of them. It proved to be a fitting end to a really busy period of time here in the Alps. The weather has now turned and although its minging in the valley it will be putting heaps of snow down higher up, so we are all waiting for a break in the weather and get out looking for that perfect powder run!! Pictures from the top 1) View from Gresonney 2) Bracey between the ice blobs 3) Bullock on Thin Ice Yeah baby 4) Erh think some ice is missing from that climb 5) Berghaus Film shoot Video...Bullock fighting the ice HA HA

The Italian Job

2009-01-20T17:10:00.003Z

You have to flexible in the mountains sometimes. Just as we were getting the taste of climbing in the high mountains the weather gods stuck their noses into things and its snowed. Now thats not a bad thing, it just means we hang up our ice axes and brush down the skis. With a poor forecast for the Cham Valley yesterday the troops decided to go to Italy, Courmayeur to be precise. I had to go via the Dynastar factory to pick up some boots (thanks Guys) so I was a little late, but I picked up Peter Rostron from Mountain Hardwear on the way through and we were soon in the lift surrounded by some very fat skis. Over-head conditions were not too good, but the area has good trees and there was heaps of fresh to be had, combine this with the fact that we pretty much had the place to ourselves meant the day was going to be way cool. We teamed up with the troops after a couple of runs and then we had a few BIG descents to the bottom of the system in good untouched snow. It was all a wicked feeling after the knarley north face of the Grande Jorasses. After we had finished Peter was super kind and took myself, Guy, Steph and team Emmett out for dinner to finish up a great day in style, cheers fella. Today was a no brainer in terms of where to go, so I was back in the car early doors to meet the herd again in Italy. Despite all the best efforts of everyone else on the road we made it there and were greeted to blue ski and knee deep snow WOOHOO. The first few runs through the trees were simply EPIC with face shots on almost every turn and that pristine snow thats a shame to disturb.....ah simply sensational. The day unfolded in the most perfect way with run after run in the fluffy stuff, even the traffic jam on the way home didn’t spoil it! There is more snow forecast tonight and it looks like it may be more of the Italian Job tomorrow, just need to find a roof rack for that mini. Kenton

What the boys do on a day off!!

2009-01-17T08:45:00.003Z

Dream Guides is made up of Guy Willet and myself (Kenton) and of course the 3 lovely girls Steph, Emma and Ri who help us out. We are hoping that Matt Hellika will become our 3rd main stream guide when he finally gets his guides ticket. So we have given him the chance to blog on the DG site and this is what he came up with, not a bad first effort I think you all agree. The climb was done in a single push leaving the bivy site at 3.30am and we got to Italy some 27hrs later, in a non stop push (well 2 hrs sitting in the snow having a rest). Its a route all 3 of us have wanted to do for many years and non of us were let down. Enjoy Kenton

Sun, Snow & Ski

2009-01-14T17:39:00.001Z

Crikey, another posting from me (Guy)...

Touring conditions continue to be good out here in the Alps, in particular in the slightly lower altitudes of the Aiguilles Rouges, Chablais and Aravis mountains surrounding the main Mont Blanc massif. Sunday saw Steph, Oli (my bro) and I heading off on another adventure to take advantage of the continuing sunny blue skies and stable snow conditions. And of course to have another go driving Oli's flash new Audi Quattro (I have car envy!)

This time we headed to the southern end of the Aravis chain, to Mont Charvin, where we heard the NE couloir was in good shape. Mont Charvin is a stunning ski-peak, with a fine summit ridge and views. A stand alone mountain with north, west and south west faces all crying out to be skied.

It's great skiing these lesser known areas - a sense of discovery, different views and a new place to come back to.

After a short skin through the forest we headed up the west face, skinning the whole way. This is the normal way to ski down too, and in fresh snow the 35-45 degree slope would be an epic descent. Being a west face and without fresh snow for 10 days, it was a little crusty and so we elected to ski the north east couloir. This would have sunless cold, powdery snow on and would be a chunk steeper. After a break for lunch on the top in the sun, we headed down the upper slope (45 degrees) towards the convexity below, beyond which we couldn't see anything - quite unnerving!

The snow at the top was good quality powder but towards the steepening, patches of grass and rock were showing through where previous skiers had scraped the snow off. Adding to the technicality of the ski, it makes it more fun - sort of!

The steepest section was 50 degrees and unfortunately was a mixture of slopey smooth rocks and sugar-snow - unskiable for the non lemming. After failing to get through these rocks we found another way through (phew!) which was just as steep but more exposed with a steep drop pulling at your feet off to the right, which again made it more fun - sort of.

Poor old Steph and Oli were left edging to the upper slope for the best part of an hour getting cold and stiff, whilst I figured the way through out (sorry guys!).

We regrouped below the rocks, at the top of the lower 45 degree couloir. Wow - the snow looked geat and it was wide with no rocks in the way. The scary bit was over and now it was great turns all the way, allbeit on tired legs. A quick skin took us to the west col and our route back to the car. The late afternoon light really made the view stunning and it was a pleasure skiing the final rolling slopes with the snow glinting in the dying sun.

Mont Charvin 2400m, NE couloir 5.1 E1 (50 degrees 100m then 45 for 250m)

Photos

1. looking down the upper slope at me trying to find a way through the rocks

2. the summit ridge (west slope in the sun and our face on the left in the shade)

3. looking towards Annecy

Choose Life

2009-01-12T23:03:00.004Z

Photos from the Top 1) AP and Myself 2) AP chowing lunch with the Col Du Colombia coming out his right ear 3) AP going for it on ice for the first time 4) The trees that got me thinking Sometimes days are strange, they start one way and end up very very different. I woke this morning with what can only be described as a form of depression. I felt a crushing weight on me in the form of worry. It was about my mortgage, my new home in France and all the work that needs doing, the fact I don’t seem to have that much work on, my lack of savings, the exchange rate and all those sorts of things that make up everyday life. I also had to drive my wonderful wife to the airport so she could fly back to the UK to work and we would be apart again. It wasn’t so much a case of getting out of bed on the wrong side more like falling out of the bloody thing. The drive to the airport was depressing, the airport was depressing and saying goodbye to Jazz was emotional and depressing together, there may even have been tears...on both sides. The drive back well... I was almost suicidal. Now a good mate of mine, AP, is visting from Australia and is staying with me for a few days and I promised him we would go ice climbing as he has never done it before. When I got home I wasn’t in the best of moods and didn’t really want to go but hey he’s AP and deserved a day on the ice, so we sorted our gear and went to the nearby area of Reposoir. I won’t go into the climbing but AP was great, conditions were great and we both had fun. But there was something about the day maybe it was the area, the company, the climbing or quite possibly all of it. Something was just clicking, its very hard to put into words but something was soothing me Reposoir is a beautiful place and come the late afternoon we were the only team there. It was totally still, totally quite. The sun was turning the limestone cliffs opposite a lovely colour and the sky was that blue that you can only dream of. It had been so cold there, that huge surface Hoar Crystals on top of the snow, (called White Kryptonite by Jazz when she first saw them) had formed wafer thin and so beautiful, it was quite simply stunning. As we walked out to the car through the trees I paused and thought of the stress I felt in the morning. Here I was spending a really cool time with a friend in stunning surroundings and I felt a huge weight disappear, it got me thinking... and I thought of the 90’s film Trainspotting and its theme ‘Choose life’. The credit crunch and the stress it brings isn’t really life, real life passes us by with out us knowing, but every know and then, like I did this afternoon we can dip into it. That short dip into real life is enough, just, to allow us to face the horror of the other life we have, the one that is less real, the one that is every day. Choose Life! Kenton

Steeps in Powder!

2009-01-08T18:15:00.000Z

A rare posting by me (Guy) to let you all know that it's not just the
ice that has been in great shape recently - but also some classic
lower altitude north faces and couloirs...
Over the new year period I had some great days out ski mountaineering
and touring seeking out fluffy powder in the Aiguilles Rouges and
hooking up with friends and family and soon to be family (that's
Steph, my fiance - she hates that word!).

With various combinations of Steph, Tom, Bairdy, Dicko and my
brothers Dom and Oli, I had some great skis. We found great snow and
sunny blue skies for descents of the Floria couloir (4.2, 40+
degrees) and both of the NW couloirs of Pt Alphonse Favre (4.3, max
45 degrees and narrow!) - all great lines leading into the shady
powder bowls of the Berard valley and perfect early season warm ups
for bigger steeper lines to come...

Saturday saw us bootpacking for an hour and a half to the top of
mountain X to one of my favorite spots for untracked soft powder
(location: Top Secret) for a 700m vert descent in completely
untracked above knee heaven. Could it get better??? Well on Sunday
Oli and I headed into the Chablais region west of Morzine to have a
go at the north face of the Roc d'Enfer. At 2250m it is not the
highest peak around, but its 350m vert north face is a great early
season steep.

Oli had to be back in Monaco early evening so the pressure was on and
some no-faff skinning and bootpacking got us up the 1100m ascent in
good time. Now the guidebooks give this face a grade of 5.2, E3 and
an angle of 50 degrees for 300m vert, which in english means pretty
steep and scary - and when we got to the top we decided the grade was
probably right , as it looked 'pretty steep and scary'. Luckily we
had judged it right and found the face covered in knee deep powder
and our fear was replaced with excitement as turn after turn was in
forgiving deep snow.

An initial traverse over rock and grass saw us into the entrance
couloir and then out onto the exposed middle ramp. A quick detour
round a second couloir filled with water-ice and it was 80s style
powder 8s to the bottom...phew! What a start to the season.

Next time i will take a camera that works!

See you out there,
Guy

Steeps in Powder!

2009-01-08T18:09:00.000Z

Next time i will take a camera that works!

See you out there,
Guy

Snake on Tour

2009-01-07T20:18:00.004Z

Pictures from the Top 1) Do I look good in this boys? 2)Is this how you ski trees?? 3) Total Domination Snake stylee 4) Where is that promised sun... and whats with the yellow 80's pants? The ice axes were put away for a few days over the weekend, and the skis were dusted off again, well to be honest there wasn’t much dust after only 2 days of non use. Anyway we had a great couple of days bashing through the powder at the Grands Montets on the skis. The top bin was open and despite a very cold wind we had some great runs from the top. We were really lucky to be joined by a very special guest, Mr Alex Duckworth aka Snake, a long time friend of Jazz. Now it became clear pretty quickly to me that Snake was very handy on the planks, not only that he is also an all round super nice guy, so I thought I should perhaps sabotage him by suggesting a boozy lunch (not that I’m competive of course). Unfortunately I seemed to get more drunk than he did so the plan to upend the Snake failed.... badly. After a day off due to an unforseen headache (clearly a dodgy glass of wine), we put together plan B to unhinge Snake.... a ski tour, he had never done one before (hee hee) and we also played our joker by giving him a set of ill fitting skins for his skis (double hee hee). We all met up in Cham and shot off to do the classic Crochues Berard. The weather wasn’t all that great, which of course was in our favour not his. The initial climb to the Col Des Crochues was not good for Snake, his skins were slipping just as we planned, this combined with some duff tuition about kick turns had him way out of his comfort zone. However he dug deep and soldiered upwards. Finally he had to take his skis off and boot up, this was not expected and to be frank we were catching the team in front, this was not a good sign. The ski round Point Alph Favre was pretty nasty but the Snake coped with it....bugger!! The 2nd session of skinning was easier than the first and Snake was doing very well until a pole was dropped...at last a mistake but NO cunningly he clipped his heels down and carefully side slipped down and retrieved it with no one noticing, clever Snake. Again due to his poor fitting skins the chap had to ditch his skis early and boot to the Col De Berard which he did in fine style considering he was wearing downhill boots. The plan to unhinge the Snake was falling apart. The ski down the Coombe de Berard was a little chopped up but the snow was really quite nice and the Snake back in his comfort zone destroyed it all. When we finally hit the trees he had returned to his element and was popping those horrid little neat turns like a pro again...oh how we hate him. At the wee bar at Le Buet a huge smile was on the face of Snake, especially when his hot Chocolate avec Cognac arrived. Our plan had completely failed and Snake shone through without even having to try. We did get the last laugh by turning off the heating in the spare room at our house so Snake, being warm blooded, had a rather chilly night, ho ho ho. A big thanks to the team of Alex ‘Snake’ Duckworth, Jazz Cool and Misha for a great day in the hills, and sorry to Alex for the poor fitting skins. Also a huge thanks to Jon Braceys two clients who shared their great Chocolate Cheesecake with us on the ski down. Then today, well it was back to pulling on ice axes. Jon Bracey and I went up to the crag at Mont Saxonnex above my house. We had a great little session knocking off an M5 and M7. Both were rather tenuous and there were a few worrying moments on some narrow flat hooks and incredibly thin ice. The crag is not that steep so the climbing is all very technical and insecure, but both routes were very very good. Now Snake...if your reading this perhaps we should venture up there on your next vist you all round hero you.....grrrrrr!!!

Ice me large

2009-01-05T13:10:00.003Z

Photos from the top 1) Nick setting off on the final Pillar on Shiva 2)Shiva Ligham in the sun 3)Argentiere Ice Falls looking good 4)Bracey sending pitch 3 5) Cascade du Dard looking in fat conditions. Do you want ice with that? The Ice conditions in Europe are looking great, there has been a prolonged cold period which has seen the formation of some great ice routes. 2008 ended on a high with an ascent of Casade Du Dard (III 6 180m) with Jon Bracey. This is one of the classic Ice falls in the Sixt-Fer-A-Cheval area and a much sought after climb. It’s climbed in 4 pitches with a couple being full 60m rope stretchers. The first fell to me which was a grade 5 wall of ice which proved to be a long lonely lead to a ledge system. Jon dispatched the 2nd and me the 3rd before the crux top pillar. Jon picked his way up through the mushroomed ice before launching up the vertical ice. It was a great lead and my forearms were screaming at the end when I pulled over to a grinning Jon belayed in the top trees. The rap down was simple and we were soon back by the car drinking hot juice, a great way to round off a wonderful 2008. New years day saw myself and Jazz drive back to the UK after a days skiing at the Grands Montets, returning the following day (it’s a long story!) and it was a very tired me that woke at 6.30 to join Nick Bullock to climb Shiva Lingam (III 6 200m). Shiva is one of the hard classics of Chamonix and a route we had both wanted to do for years. We approached from the bottom and stashed our skis before running up the easy snow and first couple of pitches. I found mine a little unnerving for some reason and had to have a wee word with myself, but I soon came to the cave belay beneath the monster top pitch. Nick battled his way up with some pretty (read bloody) steep technical ice in a long 40m pitch. There was all sorts on it from funky hooking to drop knees, brittle ice and delicate fringes, it was a pitch that had everything and for once I was glad I wasn’t leading. The final groove was a delight, mainly as you could bridge out with your feet, resting the nuked arms. We topped out into glorious sunshine before rapping to the skis. The ski down the galcier was kinda fun through a river bed and boulder field but we soon reached the lower section where the Cremerie is (which is looking fat) and then to the car for tea and medals. The ice is super good right now with most things fully formed in the Chamonix area so there is no better time to sharpen the tools and get a flight booked for some fun.

NICE ICE

2008-12-12T17:17:00.001Z

Photos From the Top Nick Battling the first pitch BOTTOM The line takes the only streak that touches down....SCARY!!! First day out on Ice is always a bit strange, but nothing quite prepared me for the day we had above my house here at Mont Saxonnex. Nick Bullock as ever was gunning for the hardest looking thing at the crag and boy did it give us a good day out. The crag is pretty low so the ice formations where thin and delicate. The first pitch was a groovy mixed number that was protected by a mix of bolts and tied off stubby ice screws that I wouldn’t hang my jacket on. I was battling with the onset of Flu so I was happy to let the Ice Warrior Bullock take the sharp end and he clearly loved it. Pitch two looked improbable to say the least but Nick crawled off right with the words “I’ll just have a look”. When he next appeared he was looking worried and the ice was sounding pretty hollow. Any doubt he had was dispensed with after I reminded him that he was “THE Nick Bullock” The pitch was full on, 40m of unrelenting steep thin hollow ice, I was scared following let alone on the lead. Great effort from the old man. Pitch 3 had a steep pillar start but kicked back onto a honeycomb slab, which was exciting. All in all it was a great start to the season that certainly got the arms fully pumped. The walk back to the car was hard as the flu kicked in with a vengeance but the route was in the bag thanks to that man Bullock. Stay posted for more winter fun KC