Time at base camp is drawing to an end. The last update was a while back when we were starting out on our camp 3 push. That went very well, Ran was a 100times better than I could have ever hoped for. The trip up to camp 2 took a little while but then it was hotter than a man wearing a down suit in the desert. I had left my sun hat at BC and as a result I really thought my head was going to explode. Ran plodded through it all and finally arrived in camp 2 in good sprits.
The following day was a rest and as these days do, it shot past. I walked to the bottom of the
The climb to camp 3 went very smoothly in fact it went fantastically. We put Ran on a 3liter flow rate on the O2 and he went like a bloody rocket. Rob left about 30mins behind and had real problems catching us up. The trip to the bottom of the face was rather blustery and I was only wearing a pair of trekking pants so I stopped at the bottom and stuck on some over pants. Mean while Ran moved steadily up the face opening a gap that took some effort to close again.
There was a savage wind howling across the lower section of the face that meant it was very very cold. I came across a poor Sherpa from another team who was suffering badly with cold fingers, I tried to warm them but it didn’t work so the only option left was to open my jacket and stick his wooden fingers in my arm pits. Not a particularly nice thing to do but it did bring some colour back to the fingers and probably meant that frostbite was avoided.
It took less than 4hrs to get to camp 3, which is a great time with clients. All 3 of us crashed in a tent for over an hour drinking some juice and eating chocolate bars, while we let our bodies get used to the new height. The only problem was that Ran kept farting which caused much mirth. Rob was keen for a photo session for the sponsors so we climbed out of the tent and held banners up for 10mins or so in the wind while he snapped away.
The trip back down to Camp 2 went really smoothly with us all quickly sliding down the fixed ropes, and before long we were all drinking tea in the mess tent at camp 2. The next day we descended all the way to BC with out any problems, it was the end of a great few days. My sprits had risen massively after the problems of our last decent from camp 2 (which took 9hrs) and I really had a good feeling about the whole expedition again.
Since then we have been resting at BC waiting for a weather window. There have been various meetings that I have had to go to as team leader, mostly about when and how to fix rope above the south col but these have all come to a good outcome and now we are ready for a summit attempt. We’re hoping that Sherpas will fix the 1st part of the route above the south col on the 20th and then the first teams will summit on the 21st. I love being in this first group as it allows me to help fix to the summit, something that any climbing would wish for but this year its not going to happen as I have obvious commitments. Going on today’s forecast it looks like we will try for a summit on the 24th, (the same day as my 2nd summit was last year). I think this will let the crowds clear and the weather looks that little bit better. I have to remember that I’m here to get Ran Fiennes to the top and help Marie Curie raise loads of money for the great cause and waiting a few extra days will I hope make both jobs easier.
That’s it for now folks I hope to get a short update tomorrow but if I don’t then keep your fingers crossed for us and listen out for that cheer on the morning of the 24th.
Stay safe
KC
PS Check the Telegraph online, The Marie Curie website and ITN news updates of our progress.
