Euro Ice Climbing

Hi Guys Well no skiing for me this week, I've been chasing Ice conditions round the alps. Monday saw me with a Client (Buffy Jones) in Italy. We were in Valsaveranche which is a beautiful, quite valley east of the Cogne area. Starting on the classic Antares (100m 4+) we found excellent conditions and we quickly topped out and moved down the valley onto an un-named Ice fall. This we polished off at Grade 4+/5ish (in current conditions) and 150m. It was a great starting day out for Buffy who hasn't climbed ice in 2 years. Tuesday saw warm temps across the alps but we set off early to Kandersteg on a little adventure. Driving over Col Du Montet was quite exciting with all the fresh snow but we made it in one piece to Goppenstien and the Train (you put the car on it) that takes you to Kandersteg. Here we quickly set about climbing despite the warm wet conditions. We got part way up Grimm/Haizahne (180m III 5+/6-) but the warm conditions stopped us on the upper half, so we raced round the corner and climbed Namenlos (165m III 4+) before the snow made climbing too unpleasent. Wed dawned clear and cold, so we went back up to look at Grimm but there was a party on it so we settled with the classic Arbonium (260m III 5). This was a mega day out with some long pitches on good ice. The last pitch was all egg shell like, with water causing a 2 foot gap between rock and ice so we had to pick our way up with considerable care, but the ascent was in the bag. Thurs saw a return to Italy. This time to Ollenmont, a venue I have never been before. It took a while to find due to me not writing down the description (like a fool) from Neil Broady. Its situated at the end of a divine valley, that contains a number of icefalls. Once we got there (it took a while) a stiff up hill hike took us to the base of 2 great looking icefalls. The left is 70m 5+ and the right 180m 4+. Due to traffic we climbed the right and it was really cool with a tricky tree root top out to the anchors. Whizzing back down we wanted to climb the harder line, but again there was a party on it so we decided the best option was a Hot Choc in the cafe!! So far a great week of ice in wonderful settings, just tomorrow left and we hope to climb Nuit Blanche. This will be Buffy's first grade 6!!!!. We have Jon Griffiths coming to take photos so look out for them, this I hope will make up for me breaking my camera at the start of the week, (hence no photos this time). Enjoy Guys KC