Seb tames the Alps

Well Seb Chivers left Chamonix this am in some nasty weather, but that’s not what the weather over the last 3 days was like. Seb started his 3-day climbing trip off in a slightly frustrating manner. We were hoping to climb the Cosmiques arête on Thurs but new over night snow and strong winds meant that the Midi lift was shut. After about an hour of hanging around drinking coffee the lift company finally said that they would open at 12.30, far too late for us. So it was plan B that was brought into play. Back to my place to swoop ropes and pick up a different set of axes and then we raced off to the Cremerie in search of ice. Much to our surprise there was still quite a bit of climbable ice and we quickly set about getting involved. Seb hasn’t done too much ice in the past but together we quickly sent the first route in 3 pitches, with Seb grinning from ear to ear on every pitch. The 2nd route was a 2 pitch little number with a steep top section. Due to the warm temps the ice was super chewy and great to climb, but even so steep ice is steep ice and it was a red faced puffing Seb who got to the belay. I lost count of how many times he said superb, but I reckon he was having fun. Day 2 saw us again at the lift for the midi. This time it was running and after a wee wait to get on we were whisked up to 3842m and the stunning view that you get from there. Seb had never been up there before and couldn’t believe the vista. The Cosmiques as ever was “superb” (Sebs words not mine). It wasn’t it the best of conditions with deep snow and about a foot of Rime Ice on the upper part of the route. In places it looked and felt like climbing in Patagonia. Poor Seb suffered a little with the altitude but he struggled on like a trooper and we forced a trail all the way up to the cable car station. It was a great little battle and one of the more memorable ascents I have done of the route. For Sebs final day we decided to sniff out some more valley ice. I wasn’t too sure where to go but we drove to Italy to look at Antares in Valsaveranche hoping that it would still be in condition. It was, and it looked pretty fat still so off we set. Climbing up the initial gully it was a little off putting to see huge blocks of ice laying in the snow, something had fallen down not too long ago. I set off on the first pitch, which was pretty wet, but like the Cremerie super chewy. The second, main pitch was in great condition and every placement was a 1st time sinker, totally ace and very very enjoyable. Seb followed in fine style until half the 3rd pitch collapsed, falling past the poor lad with a thunderous BOOM. This was kinda off putting (no surprise), but he dug deep and made it too the safety of the belay. Climbing the last pitch was out of the question and we hastily set up to rap off. Back at the car you could see a huge section of the final pitch was missing. It was a lucky escape, and not one to repeat. It was an amazing few days with fantastic weather. Stay posted as Seb has some great pictures, which he’ll send to me so I can up load. Today is a rest day before I start a week with Sir Ran Fiennes in preparation for his Everest trip in April. Enjoy out there KC