It may sound like a Bond movie but in fact it was a days guiding in Chamonix. Joe and Ewan two ex-pats living in Geneva had contacted Dream Guides to have a day out in the mountains on Sunday. The plan was an ascent of the classic Chere Couloir on Mont Blanc Du Tacul, and although the weather wasn’t supposed to be great it was all looking okay.
The trek across to the route from the cable car was fine, the fresh snow was about boot depth, but very light and we were soon at the base and gearing up. Joe climbed the approach pitch and then Ewan lead the 1st real pitch in good style. I took over for the 2 steeper pitches as the boys were a little concerned about them, but Joe took the final pitch and dispatched it like a seasoned ice climber. It was pretty damn cold and the cloud was fully down, it felt a bit like Scotland if the truth were known. We started to rap about 2pm leaving lots of time for the last lift and the raps all went well and we were at the bags by 2.50 so all was cool…….or so we thought.
The walk back seemed to be going okay, Joe was feeling the altitude a little but we were moving steadily until we started to climb, then Joe blew up. I think the long day and the cold combined with the altitude just wiped the poor boy out, so we crawled up towards the arête but we still had loads of time. At the base of the final arête we had 30mins left, it was going to be close. Now it wasn’t the last cable car of the day we were heading for but the last of the season, they were going to be shut until Dec 4th so it was pretty damned important we caught it.
I upped the pace and headed off into the cloud pulling Joe. Ewan was shouting encouragement from behind and Joe was really trying, digging deeper than any client I think I’ve ever had, but then came the crunch. I turned round just in time to see Joe vomit; there was no way we were going to make it! I decided to leave Joe with Ewan and shoot up the arête to the station and speak to the staff. We had just 5minn left.
My lungs were bursting as I leapt over the barrier and ran up the to the station, the staff were still there and looked surprised as I threw 2 rucksacks down (mine and Joes) I explained the situation and although they weren’t very accommodating I knew that they would wait. I raced back down to Joe only to find Ewan short roping him up the arête like a guide (well done mate). Joe looked like a ghost, grey with a hint of green. I took over and pulled him up. Getting to the ice cave Ewan took his crampons off and shot off, I helped Joe, who again was vomiting, and was in a whole world of pain before we too ran to the lift. The lift staff were pretty rude again and were almost laughing at the state of Joe but we had made it and that’s what mattered.
Back down in the valley Joe perked up at once, colour came back to his face and he started to chat to Ewan and myself, classic case of altitude sickness. We grabbed a drink in the Monkey bar and soon we were all joking about it……even poor Joe, it was not going to be a day the boys forgot quickly!!
Yesterday saw a complete contrast. Neil Brodie and I went to a crag above Lake Annecy. Le Grande Suite is an amazing crag made from the best limestone, with killer views over the lake. I was a little jaded after the escape from the Midi the day before but we got warmed up on 2 fantastic routes before we turned to a 4 stared 7b+. I got the clips in quickly and gave Brodie the beta. What an effort followed, his form is getting better and better, he fought through the crux and attacked the top head wall like man on fire. I thought he had blown it when a foot popped off but he held it and slapped up to the finishing holds only to be denied the flash by a single move. An awesome attempt.
We finished the day in the dark and it felt like a proper days climbing.
Now the weather has turned and the rest of the week looks bleak but hey it’s the Alps and there is always something to do.
Check this link below for an idea what we may be doing later this week
http://web.me.com/matteogiglio/Matteo_Giglio/Blog/Voci/2008/11/9_Voce_1.html
You take care out there guys
Kenton
It may sound like a Bond movie but in fact it was a days guiding in Chamonix. Joe and Ewan two ex-pats living in Geneva had contacted Dream Guides to have a day out in the mountains on Sunday. The plan was an ascent of the classic Chere Couloir on Mont Blanc Du Tacul, and although the weather wasn’t supposed to be great it was all looking okay.
The trek across to the route from the cable car was fine, the fresh snow was about boot depth, but very light and we were soon at the base and gearing up. Joe climbed the approach pitch and then Ewan lead the 1st real pitch in good style. I took over for the 2 steeper pitches as the boys were a little concerned about them, but Joe took the final pitch and dispatched it like a seasoned ice climber. It was pretty damn cold and the cloud was fully down, it felt a bit like Scotland if the truth were known. We started to rap about 2pm leaving lots of time for the last lift and the raps all went well and we were at the bags by 2.50 so all was cool…….or so we thought.
The walk back seemed to be going okay, Joe was feeling the altitude a little but we were moving steadily until we started to climb, then Joe blew up. I think the long day and the cold combined with the altitude just wiped the poor boy out, so we crawled up towards the arête but we still had loads of time. At the base of the final arête we had 30mins left, it was going to be close. Now it wasn’t the last cable car of the day we were heading for but the last of the season, they were going to be shut until Dec 4th so it was pretty damned important we caught it.
I upped the pace and headed off into the cloud pulling Joe. Ewan was shouting encouragement from behind and Joe was really trying, digging deeper than any client I think I’ve ever had, but then came the crunch. I turned round just in time to see Joe vomit; there was no way we were going to make it! I decided to leave Joe with Ewan and shoot up the arête to the station and speak to the staff. We had just 5minn left.
My lungs were bursting as I leapt over the barrier and ran up the to the station, the staff were still there and looked surprised as I threw 2 rucksacks down (mine and Joes) I explained the situation and although they weren’t very accommodating I knew that they would wait. I raced back down to Joe only to find Ewan short roping him up the arête like a guide (well done mate). Joe looked like a ghost, grey with a hint of green. I took over and pulled him up. Getting to the ice cave Ewan took his crampons off and shot off, I helped Joe, who again was vomiting, and was in a whole world of pain before we too ran to the lift. The lift staff were pretty rude again and were almost laughing at the state of Joe but we had made it and that’s what mattered.
Back down in the valley Joe perked up at once, colour came back to his face and he started to chat to Ewan and myself, classic case of altitude sickness. We grabbed a drink in the Monkey bar and soon we were all joking about it……even poor Joe, it was not going to be a day the boys forgot quickly!!
Yesterday saw a complete contrast. Neil Brodie and I went to a crag above Lake Annecy. Le Grande Suite is an amazing crag made from the best limestone, with killer views over the lake. I was a little jaded after the escape from the Midi the day before but we got warmed up on 2 fantastic routes before we turned to a 4 stared 7b+. I got the clips in quickly and gave Brodie the beta. What an effort followed, his form is getting better and better, he fought through the crux and attacked the top head wall like man on fire. I thought he had blown it when a foot popped off but he held it and slapped up to the finishing holds only to be denied the flash by a single move. An awesome attempt.
We finished the day in the dark and it felt like a proper days climbing.
Now the weather has turned and the rest of the week looks bleak but hey it’s the Alps and there is always something to do.
Check this link below for an idea what we may be doing later this week
http://web.me.com/matteogiglio/Matteo_Giglio/Blog/Voci/2008/11/9_Voce_1.html
You take care out there guys
Kenton
