Nick Wondering why the ice is so thin
Nick Low on the Pitch
Kenton eyeing the next move
Thursday was a day of climbing and cold showers with Nick Bullock and Jon Griffith. We decided to climb a line called Home Wet Home near the Grand Montet Ski area, the only problem was that we didn't know where it went.
I abseiled in first down a steep poorly iced groove line that to me looked pretty hard and nasty. It was clear to both of us that it wasn't the route that we were looking for but Bullock being slightly more unhinged than me thought it looked wonderful so I had no problems handing the lead over to him. Almost 2hours later I heard the shout of safe drift down.
The climbing proved to be very insecure thin ice with very poor protection, just the sort of thing that Nick likes. At the crux the ice was so thin that the first tooth of the axe was barley in, a fall here and Nick would have stripped most of the gear and taken a monster. It was a very steady lead from the old man!! The route which we think is new was great climbing on a strong line which would be much easier with more ice!!
Once finished Jon and I walked over to the classic Grade 6 Ice fall of Nuit Blanche for a quick work out. It proved somewhat more involved than we were expecting with Jon having to retreat due to the Hydro system dumping hundreds of thousands of gallons of water down the route, most of it going straight down Jons neck. Luckily Nick came to the rescue lowering a rope down that we could climb out in the dark. All in all a bit of an epic, Jon bared up well despite being stood soaking wet in sub zero conditions for almost 2 hrs.
Thanks to Jon for the photos (check www.alpinexposures.com) and Nick for the rescue!!
Be safe
Kenton and Team Dream Guides
Nick Wondering why the ice is so thin
Nick Low on the Pitch
Kenton eyeing the next move
Thursday was a day of climbing and cold showers with Nick Bullock and Jon Griffith. We decided to climb a line called Home Wet Home near the Grand Montet Ski area, the only problem was that we didn't know where it went.
I abseiled in first down a steep poorly iced groove line that to me looked pretty hard and nasty. It was clear to both of us that it wasn't the route that we were looking for but Bullock being slightly more unhinged than me thought it looked wonderful so I had no problems handing the lead over to him. Almost 2hours later I heard the shout of safe drift down.
The climbing proved to be very insecure thin ice with very poor protection, just the sort of thing that Nick likes. At the crux the ice was so thin that the first tooth of the axe was barley in, a fall here and Nick would have stripped most of the gear and taken a monster. It was a very steady lead from the old man!! The route which we think is new was great climbing on a strong line which would be much easier with more ice!!
Once finished Jon and I walked over to the classic Grade 6 Ice fall of Nuit Blanche for a quick work out. It proved somewhat more involved than we were expecting with Jon having to retreat due to the Hydro system dumping hundreds of thousands of gallons of water down the route, most of it going straight down Jons neck. Luckily Nick came to the rescue lowering a rope down that we could climb out in the dark. All in all a bit of an epic, Jon bared up well despite being stood soaking wet in sub zero conditions for almost 2 hrs.
Thanks to Jon for the photos (check www.alpinexposures.com) and Nick for the rescue!!
Be safe
Kenton and Team Dream Guides
